Peru was, quite simply, the best solo trip I have ever taken.
Seven weeks, alone, from the Pacific coast up into the Andes and back down again. The country is spectacular and endlessly varied, the people took me in stage after stage, and several travellers I met along the way became lasting friends. I arrived with a rough plan and one night booked, and I let the rest unfold. If you are considering Peru alone, this is the guide I wish someone had handed me before I went.
I have travelled a great deal on my own since, across four continents, and Peru remains the benchmark. Here is how to do it independently, and how to do it alone.
Before you go
Visa. Most nationalities, including the UK, EU, US, Canada and Australia, need no visa for a tourist stay of up to 90 days. Your passport must be valid for at least six months on entry, and you should be able to show onward or return travel. Rules do change, so confirm your own nationality’s position before booking.
Health, and one serious correction to make first. No vaccines are legally required, but if you are heading into the Amazon, hepatitis A and yellow fever protection are worth discussing with a travel clinic well before you go. That part is unchanged.
But the altitude advice matters far more, and I want to be responsible about it, because Peru’s high Andes are no joke. Cusco sits at around 3,400 metres, Puno higher, and the Colca passes higher still. Altitude sickness, soroche, can affect anyone regardless of fitness, and in its severe forms it is genuinely dangerous.
The current medical consensus is clear: ascend gradually, spend a day or two acclimatising at altitude before exerting yourself, drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol the first days, and take it slowly. Coca tea and coca leaves are the traditional Andean remedy and do help with mild symptoms, and I drank mate de coca every morning in the mountains and loved it. But, and this is the correction to what I wrote years ago, coca tea and “slowness” are not a substitute for proper preparation. If you are flying straight up to Cusco from sea level, or you have any heart or lung condition, talk to your doctor before you travel about whether acetazolamide is right for you, since it is the medication shown to help the body acclimatise, and start it as they direct. And learn the red flags that mean you must descend and seek help: a worsening headache that rest and painkillers do not touch, confusion, unsteadiness, breathlessness at rest, or a persistent cough. Descending even a few hundred metres can be lifesaving.
I travelled up gradually, overland, which is the single best thing you can do to avoid soroche, and I had no trouble. The travellers I met who flew straight to Cusco mostly suffered for a few days, and one needed oxygen. Build your route so it climbs slowly, and you give yourself the best chance.
Money. The currency is the sol (PEN, written S/). Euros are hard to change and poorly rated; US dollars circulate almost like local money and are easy to exchange. Card acceptance and ATMs are now widespread in cities, far more than when I first went, so you no longer need to carry large amounts of cash, though you should always have some for rural areas, buses and small vendors.
Language. Spanish everywhere, but you will also hear Aymara around Puno and Quechua through the central Andes, which is a genuine delight to listen to, like a song. A few words of Spanish go a very long way with independent travel here.
Connectivity. Wifi is widely available, including on many long-distance buses. A travel eSIM bought before you go is the simplest way to have data on arrival.
Travelling with children. One rule that catches people out: a child of any nationality travelling with only one parent, or with another adult, may need notarised, translated permission to travel from the absent parent or guardian. Check the current requirement with the Peruvian consulate if this applies to you.
Is Peru good for solo and solo female travellers?
Yes. It is one of the countries I most confidently recommend to women travelling alone, and I say that having done exactly that for seven weeks. The traveller trail is well established, the casas particulares and family guesthouses are warm and safe, and you meet other independent travellers constantly, on the buses, on the boats, on the treks, so you are alone exactly as much as you choose to be.
The honest, practical notes:
- The overland buses are your friend. The good companies run comfortable, safe, long-distance coaches, often overnight. Book the reputable operators, choose the reserved upper-deck seats, and keep your daypack with your valuables on your lap, not in the overhead or the hold.
- Use app-based taxis in the cities rather than hailing on the street, especially at night, particularly in Lima. Tracked rides with registered drivers have made solo evenings much easier and safer.
- Stay central and stay social. The family guesthouses I list below are where I felt safest and least alone. Hosts who write to check you arrived safely at your next stop, which happened to me more than once, are worth more than any hotel star rating.
- The usual awareness, not fear. I found Peru no more threatening than any big city at home: don’t flash valuables, keep your wits in crowds and bus stations, and trust your instincts. I write about this at length in my guide to avoiding theft and scams.
My seven-week route
I travelled as slowly as I could, fixing only a rough shape before departure and taking the advice of locals and fellow travellers as I went. That is the whole method, and it is why the trip was so good: I stayed a week in places I had planned two days for, because I could.
The route climbs gradually from the coast into the Andes, which, as above, is also the sensible way to handle the altitude. Treat the accommodation names as still-loved recommendations but the old prices as long gone: check current rates when you book.
Lima
The coastal capital and almost everyone’s starting point. Base yourself in Miraflores or bohemian Barranco, both walkable, pleasant and safe, and give the historic centre a full day for its cathedral, monasteries and the Convento de Santo Domingo. Book your first night before you fly, then relax into the trip.
Paracas and the Islas Ballestas
Down the coast, for a boat trip out to the wildlife-thronged Ballestas islands, sometimes called the poor traveller’s Galápagos, sea lions, penguins, thousands of birds, and the desert reserve of Paracas.
Ica and Huacachina
A real desert oasis ringed by giant dunes, where the thing to do is a late-afternoon dune-buggy ride and sandboarding at sunset, followed by pisco tasting at the vineyards that make Peru’s national spirit.
Arequipa and the Colca Canyon
The “white city” of pale volcanic stone, and the one I fell hardest for, planning three days and staying over a week. The dazzling Monasterio de Santa Catalina is reason enough to come. From here, the multi-day trek into the Colca Canyon, one of the deepest in the world, with condors riding the morning thermals, is a highlight of the whole country.
Puno and Lake Titicaca
On the shore of the highest navigable lake on earth. The boat trip to the islands is the reason to come: I loved staying overnight on Amantani and visiting Taquile, though I was less taken with the heavily visited Uros floating islands. If you are here in early February, the Puno carnival is unforgettable. This is high altitude, so arrive already acclimatised.
Cusco and the Sacred Valley
The old Inca capital and the hub for everything around it. Buy the Boleto Turístico for the sites, and give real time to the Sacred Valley: Pisac, Moray, Chinchero, Ollantaytambo. I got happily stranded in Ollantaytambo for three extra days by flooding, and met wonderful people because of it. Cusco is high; take your first day here gently.
Machu Picchu and Aguas Calientes
The reason many people come to Peru, and it does not disappoint. The classic Inca Trail treks need booking months ahead and go through licensed operators; if the trail is closed or full, as it was for me after flooding, the train to Aguas Calientes through the gorge is spectacular in its own right. I went up to the site more than once, first with a guide to understand it, then alone to simply be there, and climbed Huayna Picchu for the view back over it. Book Machu Picchu entry in advance through the official government site, as numbers are capped and timed.
Máncora
Right up in the far north, a beach town for doing absolutely nothing after weeks on the move. After all that travelling, three days of sand and ceviche was exactly right.
Getting around
Long-distance buses are the backbone of independent travel in Peru: comfortable, cheap, extensive, and often overnight, which saves a night’s accommodation. Book the reputable companies, choose reserved seats, and keep valuables on you.
Shared and local buses cost almost nothing and are the best way to meet Peruvians, filling and leaving constantly.
Trains cover the key scenic and practical routes, above all to Aguas Calientes, and need booking ahead in high season.
Internal flights save days on the long north-south hauls if time is tight, though overland is better for acclimatisation and for the landscapes.
What to pack
- A backpack, not a wheeled case, for buses, cobbles and the occasional unpaved street. My reasoning is in my packing light guide.
- Layers for real cold and real heat. You will go from Pacific coast to 4,000-metre passes, sometimes in a day. A warm layer, a windproof, and a hat matter as much as your summer things.
- A silk sleeping-bag liner, for comfort and cleanliness across varied accommodation.
- Sun protection, which is fierce at altitude: high-factor cream, sunglasses, a brimmed hat.
- A small first-aid kit with painkillers, rehydration salts, anti-nausea tablets, and any personal medication kept accessible.
- Pack for a week and use laundries, which are everywhere and cheap, so you can travel light.
The honest bit
Peru gave me the best weeks of my travelling life, and it did it precisely because I went slowly, alone, and let it happen. I cried leaving Puno. I was adopted by a family in Arequipa who checked on me for weeks afterwards. I got stranded by a flood and counted it a gift.
That is what independent solo travel gives you that no tour can: the room for a place, and its people, to change your plans and, a little, you.
If you are thinking of doing Peru alone, do. And if you have questions about planning it, ask me in the comments.
Further reading
- The best countries for solo travel
- Avoiding theft and scams when travelling
- Independent travel in Sri Lanka, another long solo journey by public transport
- Packing light
FAQ
Is Peru safe for solo female travellers? Generally yes, and it is one of the most rewarding solo destinations in South America. The traveller trail is well established, family guesthouses are warm and safe, and you meet other independent travellers constantly. Use app-based taxis at night, especially in Lima, choose reputable long-distance bus companies and keep valuables on you, stay in central neighbourhoods like Miraflores or Barranco, and apply the same awareness you would in any big city.
How many days do you need for Peru? Two to three weeks covers the classic route of Lima, Cusco, the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca at a reasonable pace. A month or more lets you add the south coast, Arequipa and the Colca Canyon, and the northern beaches, and travel slowly and independently, which is when Peru is at its best.
How do you avoid altitude sickness in Peru? Ascend gradually rather than flying straight to high altitude, spend a day or two acclimatising before exerting yourself, stay well hydrated and avoid alcohol at first. Coca tea helps with mild symptoms. If you must ascend quickly or have a heart or lung condition, ask your doctor before travelling about acetazolamide. Seek medical help and descend if you develop a severe headache, confusion, breathlessness at rest or a persistent cough.
Do you need a visa to visit Peru? Most nationalities, including the UK, EU, US, Canada and Australia, do not need a visa for tourist stays of up to 90 days. Your passport must be valid for at least six months on entry and you should be able to show onward or return travel. Check your own nationality’s current requirements before booking, as rules can change.
Is Peru good for independent travel? Very. An extensive, affordable long-distance bus network connects the whole country, family guesthouses and hostels are geared to independent travellers, and it is easy to plan a rough route and adjust as you go on local advice. Booking only your first night and letting the trip unfold is a genuinely viable and rewarding way to see Peru.
