My two weeks exploring Cambodia were far from easy, but they were unforgettable. This road trip, planned for months, took me on an emotional rollercoaster—Cambodia felt more African than Asian at first sight, raw and intense. Here’s everything you need to know to plan your own adventure, from Phnom Penh to Battambang and Siem Reap.
Phnom Penh: Chaos, History, and Reflection
Where I stayed:
I booked The Pavilion ($35/night with breakfast). This colonial mansion is an oasis of calm with stylish rooms, a lush tropical garden and a serene central pool. If you plan to stay longer or crave more space, consider renting a villa in Phnom Penh for a home-like alternative.
Where I ate:
- Rever Front Restaurant: Delicious chicken amok (22,000 KHR).
- The Pavilion’s own restaurant: Excellent Khmer dishes (20,000–15,000 KHR).
- Avoid: Ngon Restaurant, where I had poor service and disappointing food (24,000 KHR).
What I saw:
- Royal Palace (25,000 KHR): Beautiful but less grand than Bangkok’s.
- National Museum (12,500 KHR): Fascinating Khmer art and stunning architecture.
- Wat Phnom (4,000 KHR): The city’s spiritual heart.
Phnom Penh is a city of stark contrasts: luxury villas stand beside crumbling buildings; shiny SUVs share dusty streets with battered tuk-tuks; and everywhere, reminders of Cambodia’s tragic past are visible, from landmine victims to children selling trinkets.
Day trips from Phnom Penh:
- Oudong (Udong): Former royal capital 41km away, with panoramic views and a series of temples reached by a 500-step climb.
- Institute of Buddhist Studies: Peaceful, immaculate grounds with welcoming monks—don’t miss it!
- Phnom Chisor & Tonle Bati: Phnom Chisor’s hilltop ruins are atmospheric, while Tonle Bati is less impressive and now partially overtaken by a Chinese cemetery.
Battambang: Colonial Charm and Countryside Adventures
How I got there:
I took the Paramount bus from Phnom Penh (10,000 KHR, book in advance). The six-hour journey featured loud music, frequent honking, and colourful roadside stops.
Where I stayed:
La Villa Battambang ($40/night with breakfast). Housed in a stunning 1930s colonial mansion, but poorly managed: mediocre food, loud karaoke from nearby bars, and a disappointing breakfast. On the plus side, there’s a lovely pool.
Where I ate:
- Bamboo Train Café: Fresh Khmer dishes, average cost 25,000 KHR.
- White Rose: Tasty spring rolls and fruit smoothies for 18,000 KHR.
What I did:
Rode the famous Bamboo Train ($6) to a traditional brick factory—a quirky, unmissable experience.
Siem Reap: Temples, Culture and Relaxation
How I got there:
I took the scenic eight-hour boat ride ($20) from Battambang to Siem Reap, passing floating villages along the Tonlé Sap. Be warned: it’s freezing in the morning—bring a sweatshirt—and you might get wet if you sit in the front rows!
Where I stayed:
Palm Garden Lodge ($9/night with breakfast): Budget-friendly but basic, with free bikes for exploring Siem Reap. Bathrooms were roughly cleaned and breakfasts were poor, but the owner was kind and helpful.
Where I ate:
- Cambodian BBQ in Pub Street: Loved their crocodile meat ($25).
- Tigre de Papier: Delicious lok lak for $7.
- Smoothie stands: Fresh fruit smoothies everywhere for $1—so refreshing!
What I did:
Watched sunrise over Angkor Wat, a spiritual, unforgettable moment, then explored the Small Circuit temples.
Practical Tips
- Budget: My entire two-week trip, including flights, hotels, and meals, cost ~€900.
- Visa: Visa on arrival in Phnom Penh costs $30. Pay a $25 fee when leaving the country.
- Packing: Bring a silk sleeping bag liner, sarong, extra socks for temples, and a backpack (not a suitcase). Travel light—laundry services are everywhere.
- Currency (2011 rates): $1 ≈ €0.76; 1 KHR ≈ €0.00019.
- Flights: I flew EgyptAir from Milan Malpensa to Bangkok via Cairo (€489), then AirAsia to Phnom Penh (€69).
Cambodia’s Heartbreaking Beauty
Cambodia is a country scarred by colonisation, war and the Khmer Rouge. Many in my generation were lost before birth. The smiles are warm but often tinged with sadness. Despite this, Cambodia is a place of extraordinary beauty, rich culture and unforgettable encounters.
During my journey, I laughed, cried, felt helpless, angry, and amazed. I will never forget the bright smiles, sad eyes, reminders of a past that must not be forgotten—and the breathtaking legacy of Khmer civilisation.
Ready to plan your trip?
Explore Cambodia with an open heart, respect its people, and savour every moment of this life-changing destination.
