I recently embarked on a six-day self-driving winter adventure across Iceland, my second trip to this unique island. This journey combined the classic geological marvels of this unique island with exhilarating encounters in the heart of its untamed wilderness.
Travelling on my own, I followed a well-loved itinerary that many small-group tours offer, yet the freedom of a self-drive experience allowed me to savour each moment at my own pace. From the vibrant streets of Reykjavik to the quiet isolation of farm stays beneath dazzling auroral skies, every day brought new surprises and unforgettable memories.
Iceland wasn’t the trip of a lifetime, because it’s not my kind of place, but I’m glad I went twice and saw the glaciers, geysers and wild nature.
One thing caught my eye, though, and I miss it a bit: the waterfalls from the smallest and most hidden ones to the majestic ones. They have a unique charm, partly because, unlike elsewhere, they are completely natural and untouched by human infrastructure. Simply wonderful!
Day 1: Welcoming Reykjavik
Arriving in Reykjavik, the world’s northernmost capital, I was instantly charmed by its blend of urban cool and natural splendour. Nestled just below the Arctic Circle, Reykjavik boasts a vibrant arts scene, quirky cafés, and a lively nightlife that contrasts with its serene surroundings.
I started my day by visiting the National Museum to trace Iceland’s fascinating history—from the arrival of the Vikings in the 9th century to modern times—before unwinding with a rejuvenating dip at the Laugardalslaug Geothermal Pool.
Day 2: The Golden Circle & an unexpected snooker session
I set off early the next day along the iconic Golden Circle route. My first stop was Þingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where the American and Eurasian tectonic plates gently pull apart—a geological wonder that left me in awe. I also took a moment to admire the crystal-clear waters of the Silfra fissure.
Continuing, I marvelled at the power of Strokkur geyser in Iceland’s renowned Geysir geothermal area. I stood spellbound before the mighty Gullfoss (Golden Falls), where water plunges 32 metres into the Hvitargljufur Gorge.
A memorable twist on the day came when a severe windstorm forced a 24-hour stop at a cosy countryside inn near Þingvellir. What could have been a disruption turned into an unexpected delight as I spent time with a few friendly Irish couples, learning to play snooker—a pastime I now cherish!
Later, I reached the Hvolsvöllur Valley and checked into an Icelandic farm guesthouse. Far from the city lights, the remote location provided an ideal base to hunt for the Northern Lights that night.
Day 3: South Coast Magic & the enchanting Jokulsárlón
Day three was all about the dramatic beauty of Iceland’s South Coast. I began at Skógafoss, one of the country’s most impressive waterfalls. Standing 25 metres wide with a 60-metre drop, its sheer power is both humbling and exhilarating—and on sunny days, the mist even forms enchanting rainbows.
The journey continued along the black sand beaches of Reynisfjara and past the rugged cliffs of Dyrhólaey, with a brief stop to appreciate the otherworldly rock formations of Reynisdrangar and the remnants of the historic Laki eruption (1782–83). The day’s highlight was arriving at the stunning Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon, where colossal icebergs float in a serene, bluish abyss. I spent the night at a charming farm stay along the South Coast, once again keeping an eye on the skies for a potential auroral display.
Day 4: Walking on Europe’s largest ice cap & discovering Vik
This has been a day of contrasts. I explored Vatnajokull, Europe’s largest ice cap, home to around 30 glaciers. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or prefer a gentler stroll, the trails here are adaptable to your pace, offering close-up views of the glacier’s majestic tongue and its ever-changing landscape due to climate change.
In the afternoon, I made my way to the picturesque seaside village of Vik. With its dramatic cliffs and sweeping ocean views, Vik’s black sand beaches create an unforgettable scene that perfectly encapsulates Iceland’s raw beauty. In Reynisfjara, the best-known black sand beach on the south coast of Iceland, the power of the sea seems unstoppable and insatiable and enchants, as only waves or flames can do.
Day 5: Reykjavik revisited, snowy horse-riding & the Sky Lagoon
Returning to Reykjavik on day five, I visited the beautiful Seljalandsfoss waterfall, where you can walk right behind the cascading water for a truly immersive experience.
Back in the capital, a short guided walking tour revealed the city’s most iconic landmarks: the charming old harbour, the bustling city centre, and the striking Hallgrimskirkja church. While Reykjavik’s eclectic art galleries, quirky cafés, and vibrant music scene make it a cultural hub, the city also offers plenty of opportunities for further day trips—a visit to the Blue Lagoon or a stroll through its fascinating street art.
One of the highlights of my trip was an unforgettable horse-riding experience in the snow. Gliding through the wintry landscapes on horseback provided a unique perspective on Iceland’s stark beauty—a memory that will forever be etched in my heart.
As night fell, I treated myself to the fantastic Sky Lagoon experience. Located just outside Reykjavik, this geothermal haven offers a sublime nighttime soak with panoramic views of the starlit sky—a perfect way to unwind and reflect on the day’s adventures. For anyone seeking a truly magical experience, I highly recommend checking out Sky Lagoon.
Day 6: Lazy farewell
On the final day, with no set itinerary, I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and a final wander around Reykjavik.
Depending on your schedule, you might opt to store your luggage at your hotel while exploring more of the city’s hidden gems, such as its fascinating art galleries or even book a snorkelling adventure in the Silfra Fissure, renowned for its crystal-clear waters and stunning underwater landscapes.
Practical tips for a self-driving Iceland adventure
• Getting Around: Renting a car is the best way to explore Iceland on your own. The roads are well-signposted, and the freedom of a self-drive tour allows you to stop wherever the landscape inspires you. If you have a campervan from Cozy Campers, then it’s an even better bet, especially if you are travelling in a group and prioritise comfort.
• Navigation: Always check weather and road conditions, especially in winter. Local apps and websites provide up-to-date information.
• Dining: Enjoy local Icelandic cuisine at quaint cafés, farm stays, and traditional restaurants. Try dishes like reindeer stew (if you eat meat), fresh seafood, and hearty soups that warm you from the inside out.
• Day Trips from Reykjavik: The capital is an excellent base for additional excursions, such as a visit to the Blue Lagoon (which I skipped), a stroll through the colourful streets of downtown Reykjavik, or exploring nearby natural attractions.
My self-drive Northern Lights escape was an adventure of a lifetime—a journey filled with natural wonders, unexpected stops, and moments of personal discovery. Whether chasing the aurora under the vast Icelandic skies, exploring the raw beauty of glaciers and waterfalls, or even learning a new skill like snooker with newfound friends, every moment enriched my experience in this land of fire and ice.
Iceland beckons adventure, and I hope my journey inspires you to chart your own course through this breathtaking country. Until next time—happy travels!
P.S. For a summer version itinerary, check out that of my friend Roberta and her family!
