I will be honest: I was not sure Phuket was worth it, at first. Thailand’s largest island has a reputation for package tourism and rowdy nightlife, and that is not really my thing. But Phuket rewards anyone who looks past the obvious, with beautiful beaches, an atmospheric old town, wild limestone seascapes just offshore, and, if you choose where you stay well, real peace. The trick, as so often, is to base yourself somewhere quiet and let the island come to you. The best time to visit is the dry season, from November to April, when the weather is kind and the sea calm.
Here is what to see and do.
The beaches
Phuket is famous for its beaches, each with its own character.
- Patong is the lively one, all bars, restaurants and water sports, day and night. Fun in small doses.
- Kata is quieter and more laid-back, with clear water, good for families and, in the rainy season, surfers.
- Freedom Beach, reached only by boat or a steep hike, is the hidden gem: unspoiled, calm and lovely.
The Big Buddha
Up on Nakkerd Hill, the 45-metre Big Buddha looks out over the whole island, and the views and the serene atmosphere make the trip worthwhile. A gentle introduction to the island’s Buddhist culture.
Old Phuket Town
My favourite part of the island, and the most surprising. Old Phuket Town is a beautiful tangle of Sino-Portuguese shophouses in faded pastels, with quirky cafés, street art and markets; wander Thalang Road especially. It is the human, cultural Phuket most beach tourists never see.
Day trip: the Phi Phi Islands
A short boat ride away, the Phi Phi Islands are pure drama: sheer cliffs, turquoise water, rich marine life. Maya Bay, made famous by the film The Beach, is the star, though a word to the wise and the responsible: it was closed from 2018 to 2022 to let its reef recover, and now reopens with visitor limits and no swimming from the beach, to protect it. Go, but go gently and follow the rules; it is a fragile place loved half to death.
Day trip: Phang Nga Bay and James Bond Island
Another unforgettable day out is Phang Nga Bay, a labyrinth of limestone karsts rising from emerald water. The highlight is James Bond Island (Ko Tapu), from The Man with the Golden Gun. Explore by traditional longtail boat, or kayak into the hidden caves and lagoons.
Into the jungle
Phuket is not all beaches. Zip-line through the treetops at Hanuman World, or trek to waterfalls like Bang Pae or Ton Sai, for a green, cooler side of the island.
Temples
Phuket is rich in Buddhist temples. Wat Chalong, beautifully decorated, is the most important and a real centre of local devotion. Wat Phra Thong, with its half-buried golden Buddha and its legend, is worth seeking out.
Nightlife on Bangla Road
If nightlife is your thing, Bangla Road in Patong is where Phuket roars after dark, with bars, clubs and live music. Loud, brash and unmissable for some, easily skipped for others.
The food
No visit is complete without eating your way around: from street stalls to fine dining, try Pad Thai, Tom Yum Goong and the southern speciality Massaman Curry. For a deeper dive, take a Thai cooking class; I did one in Chiang Mai years ago and it remains one of my favourite travel memories.
A Thai massage
After a day of exploring, treat yourself to a traditional Thai massage. Oasis Spa and Let’s Relax are the polished options, but small, budget-friendly places are everywhere.
Where to stay: a friend’s hillside flat
Here is my real tip for enjoying Phuket the way I would, away from the resort crowds. My friend Paolo rents out his own private hillside flat, and it is exactly the kind of quiet, spacious base I love: four bedrooms and five bathrooms, a 15-metre pool, and a wide, unobstructed sea view over the Andaman, all to yourself.
It suits families, groups of friends or a couple who want room to breathe: an open-plan living and dining space, a terrace made for sunset drinks, a concierge who will sort restaurant tables and tours, and 24-hour security, so you can relax completely. And though it feels wonderfully private up on the hillside, it is only about 500 metres from the beach and local restaurants, so you get both worlds: calm at home, and the island a short stroll away. Waking to that sea view, breakfast on the terrace, a late swim under the stars, it is a lovely way to do Phuket.
You can book it directly by email, which keeps the price down.
A few last tips
I have written a full guide to travelling in Southeast Asia with etiquette and practicalities, but the essentials for Phuket: at temples, dress modestly and remove your shoes, and never turn your back to a Buddha statue. Pack light, do not forget sunscreen, bring your sense of adventure, and enjoy the island.
Frequently asked questions
Yes, if you look past its package-tourism reputation. Beyond the busy resorts, Phuket offers lovely quieter beaches, the atmospheric Sino-Portuguese Old Town, the Big Buddha, and superb day trips to the Phi Phi Islands and Phang Nga Bay. The key is to base yourself somewhere calm and explore selectively.
The dry season, from November to April, is best, with pleasant weather and calm, clear seas ideal for beaches and boat trips. The rainy season (roughly May to October) is cheaper and greener but brings downpours and rougher water, though it can suit surfers.
The two classics are the Phi Phi Islands (including Maya Bay, now visitor-limited to protect it) and Phang Nga Bay with James Bond Island, both stunning limestone seascapes reached by boat. Inland, the jungle zip-lines and waterfalls make a good cooler-day alternative.
Choose a quieter area away from Patong’s nightlife, ideally somewhere private with a bit of space, and near enough to a beach and restaurants to walk. A self-catering villa or private flat, like my friend Paolo’s hillside place near the beach, gives you calm and privacy while keeping the island close.
Further reading
- Plan the wider trip: my ultimate Thailand travel guide and tips for travelling Southeast Asia
- A quieter Thai island I loved: Koh Lanta
- Before you go: how to pack light
