Here is my complete, practical guide to Thailand. After several trips to the Land of Smiles, and a good many posts about the places I fell for, it felt time to write something more useful than lyrical.
Documents, health and things to know
Visas (check before you go, this is changing). For years the rule was simple, but it has been in flux, so verify the current position before you travel. Since mid-2024 most nationalities (including the UK, EU, US, Canada, Australia) have received a 60-day visa exemption on arrival, no visa needed in advance. However, in 2026 the Thai government approved a return to a 30-day exemption, which takes legal effect only once published in the official gazette and may come in with little notice. So: at the time of writing the 60-day stamp still applies, but plan around the possibility of 30 days, and if you need longer, look at a proper tourist visa. Always confirm on the official Thai e-Visa portal before booking. Your passport must be valid for at least six months on entry, and you’ll need proof of onward or return travel.
The Thailand Digital Arrival Card (TDAC) is now mandatory: you complete it online before you arrive, at major airports and land borders. Don’t overlook it, it’s the modern equivalent of the old paper arrival card and you’ll want it done before you land.
At land borders (crossing from Myanmar, for instance) the stamp you get may be shorter, sometimes 15 days, so factor that in if you’re planning overland entries.
Carry your passport. The police can ask for it at any time. I was asked several times, especially in the north, and usually managed with a photocopy, though once in Mae Salong I thought I was in for a fine, and was saved when the National Anthem began and literally brought the policeman to attention.
Health. No vaccination is required to enter, but for long treks in the forests, or a very low-budget trip, it’s worth being vaccinated against hepatitis A and B. Thai pharmacies are excellent and cheap. The hospitals are very good, and cheaper than Western ones though not free, the one on Koh Samui looks more like a five-star hotel than a hospital. I should know: I ended up in hospital more than once on my travels there.
Renting a scooter is a wonderful way to explore, but remember you drive on the left, helmets are compulsory (and enforced, especially for foreigners), and you need an international driving permit and locally-bought insurance, since foreign policies aren’t recognised. Do it properly, more properly than I always did.
Connectivity. WiFi is almost everywhere, and where you pay, it costs next to nothing. For reliable data on the move, a travel eSIM is the easy modern solution.
Buying art and antiques. If you collect, check the rules first via Thai Customs. Years ago I bought a jade opium pipe for my collection, perhaps the most extravagant thing I’ve ever treated myself to, and once the dealer had provided the paperwork I had to get authorisation from the Department of Fine Arts to take it through customs. Complicated, but fair.
Getting there
Finding an affordable flight to Bangkok isn’t hard, especially if you book ahead. Airlines that tend to offer good fares from Europe include Turkish Airlines, Qatar Airways, Emirates, Oman Air and others via their hub cities. Prices vary enormously with season and how early you book, so set a fare alert and compare, rather than fixing on one figure. My own preference has long been the Gulf carriers for comfort and service on the long haul.
My favourite itinerary
Ideally, move slowly and give each place real time, that’s how you come to understand it. But Thai transport is comfortable and cheap, so at a push you could do a good loop in about two weeks without too much stress.
Tips, and a few don’ts
- Thai people are extraordinarily polite, and the culture values composure more than ours. Don’t raise your voice in public, sound advice everywhere, really.
- Pack light, a week’s clothes and rely on the cheap laundries you’ll find everywhere. Here’s how I pack light.
- Take a silk sleeping-bag liner for nights when a place doesn’t look quite clean.
- Keep a jumper and socks handy on buses and trains, the air conditioning is kept at arctic levels.
- Carry tissues when you go out, not least for streaming eyes during a fiery meal.
- Bring something to cover shoulders and legs for temples and palaces, and socks: I once blistered my bare feet on the sun-baked marble of the Grand Palace in Bangkok.
Mī kār deinthāng thī̀ dī, have a wonderful trip.
Further reading
- Koh Lanta, the Thai island I had in mind
- Koh Samui, the beach island that won me over
- Thailand, the Land of Smiles, on hospitality
- Official entry requirements: the Thai e-Visa portal
Frequently asked questions
It depends on your nationality and is currently in flux. Since mid-2024 most nationalities have received a 60-day visa exemption on arrival, but in 2026 Thailand approved a return to a 30-day exemption, pending official publication. Check the official Thai e-Visa portal before you travel, ensure your passport is valid for six months, and have proof of onward travel. If you need to stay longer than the exemption allows, apply for a tourist visa.
The Thailand Digital Arrival Card (TDAC) is a mandatory online form you complete before arriving in Thailand, at major airports and land borders. It has replaced the old paper arrival card, so fill it in online before you land to avoid delays at immigration.
Around two weeks lets you see a good combination of Bangkok, the north (Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai) and a few islands or beaches, using Thailand’s cheap and comfortable transport. If you can, go slower and give each place more time; a month lets you travel at the relaxed pace the country rewards.
Yes. Thailand is one of the easiest countries in Asia for independent and solo travellers, with excellent, affordable transport, widespread WiFi, good and inexpensive healthcare, and famously welcoming people. Normal precautions apply, carry your passport or a copy, drive scooters responsibly and insured, and dress respectfully at temples.
The cool, dry season from November to February is generally the most comfortable time to visit, with pleasant temperatures across most of the country. March to May is very hot, and the monsoon runs roughly June to October, though rain often comes in short bursts and the islands’ seasons differ between the Andaman and Gulf coasts.
