Tromsø, the “Gateway to the Arctic”, is a lively little city tucked into Norway’s far north, ringed by fjords and snow-capped peaks, and it stole my heart. I began my 47-day journey the length of Norway here at the beginning of February, but the classic window is late September to early April, when the polar nights are dark enough for the northern lights. Whether you come for the aurora, the wilderness or the culture, Tromsø delivers.
One of my favourite things was simply wandering downtown: pretty shopping streets (buy a Norwegian wool jumper, socks and gloves at once, you will not regret it), colourful wooden houses, and cafés and restaurants everywhere.
A little history
Founded as a small trading post in 1794, Tromsø grew fast on the strength of its position, and by the turn of the twentieth century it was the launch pad for the great polar expeditions; Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen both used it as a base. It briefly sheltered the Norwegian government after the 1940 Nazi invasion. Today it wears its Arctic heritage lightly, over a thriving cultural scene and a deep love of the outdoors.
Here is what I would not miss.
Chase the northern lights
Tromsø sits right under the auroral oval, which makes it one of the best places on earth to see the lights, on clear, dark nights from late September to early April. You can sometimes catch them from the city, but your best bet is a guided chase: local guides read the weather and aurora forecasts and drive you to wherever the sky is clearest. I booked my aurora night through the Ami Hotel, the cheap and cosy place I stayed.
The Arctic Cathedral
The Arctic Cathedral (Ishavskatedralen), built in 1965, is a modern masterpiece: a great white triangle against the mountains, with a vast stained-glass window. Catch one of its northern-lights or midnight-sun concerts if you can; ask for the programme when you arrive.
The Polar Museum
For the explorer in you, the Polar Museum tells the story of Tromsø’s role in Arctic exploration, from Amundsen and Nansen to Norway’s history of sealing and whaling. A fascinating hour.
A fjord cruise
Surrounded by fjords, Tromsø is made for a cruise, from daytime wildlife trips (reindeer, whales, sea eagles) to evening sailings under the aurora. I took a daytime one and had an incredible, and freezing, time.
The Fjellheisen cable car
The Fjellheisen cable car climbs 421 metres to Mount Storsteinen for a sweeping view over the city, the fjords and the mountains, spectacular in the snow. You can hike or snowshoe up instead, but it was the very start of my trip and I was firmly on the lazy side of my mood.
Sami culture
If it is your first time in the far north, a Sami reindeer-sledding experience is a lovely way to connect with the Arctic’s Indigenous heritage: reindeer sledging, a meal in a lavvu (the traditional tent), and traditional joik singing. I have done it several times across Finland and Sweden, and always loved it.
Dog-sledding
One of the great Arctic thrills: racing across the snow behind a team of eager huskies, as a passenger or trying your hand at mushing, usually with hot drinks to thaw out afterwards. After my Finnish husky safari I naturally took the reins, and loved it.
Whale watching
From November to January, Tromsø is one of the best places in the world to watch whales, when orcas and humpbacks come into the fjords to feast on herring. An awe-inspiring sight.
Skiing
Cross-country skiing is Norway’s national pastime and popular here, with gentle trails for beginners; you can rent skis at Tromsø Outdoor downtown, ideally with a guide if it is your first time. I had planned to, but went for downhill instead at Tromsø Alpinpark, a short bus ride from town, loved it, and ended up skiing almost every day of my whole Norwegian trip.
Sauna and swimming
After hours in the cold, nothing beats a sauna or a hot pool. I tested two: Pust, a wooden sauna floating in the harbour with a view of the Arctic Cathedral, and Tromsøbadet, a big pool complex with jacuzzis, sauna, steam room and a heated outdoor pool.
Local food
Tromsø’s Arctic table is a treat: seafood like Arctic char, king crab and cod, and Sami dishes featuring reindeer. Emma’s Dream Kitchen, all local and seasonal, is one of the city’s most loved restaurants. And my own favourite? A crab sandwich in the tiniest bar I have ever squeezed into.
This article is also available as a mobile app, via GPSmyCity, for GPS-guided directions to the places above.
Packing for Tromsø
The cold is the one real challenge. My cold-weather packing list for the north applies directly here; otherwise, dress for the outdoors, as Norwegians dress very casually, even at night.
Tromsø blends adventure, culture and raw natural beauty like almost nowhere else. Go gently, respect the nature and the Sami culture, and leave only footprints.
Frequently asked questions
For the northern lights, come between late September and early April, when the nights are dark enough (winter offers the longest darkness). For whale watching, November to January is best; for the midnight sun and hiking, May to July. Each season is magical, so choose according to what you most want to see.
Yes, Tromsø is one of the best places on earth for the aurora, sitting directly under the auroral oval. On clear, dark nights from late September to early April your chances are good, especially on a guided chase that drives you to the clearest skies. Sightings are never guaranteed, so allow several nights.
Plenty: the Arctic Cathedral and its concerts, the Polar Museum, a fjord cruise, the Fjellheisen cable car, dog-sledding, a Sami reindeer experience, whale watching (in season), cross-country and downhill skiing, harbour saunas, and superb Arctic seafood. The colourful little city itself is a pleasure to wander.
Tromsø, like all Norway, is expensive, but it is very safe, well organised and welcoming, which makes it excellent for solo travel. Save by choosing cosy budget hotels and self-catering, and treat restaurants and guided tours as highlights rather than everyday spending.
Winter temperatures sit below freezing, often well below, so proper Arctic layering is essential: thermal base layers, wool or fleece mid layers, a waterproof insulated shell, good boots, gloves and a hat, plus disposable warmers. See my cold-weather packing list for the north for the full kit.
Further reading
- The whole journey this began: Norway in winter, Tromsø to Oslo in 47 days
- Why I keep going north: The North, slow winter travel in Lapland, Scandinavia and the Arctic
- What to wear for it: my cold-weather packing list
- More of Arctic Norway: Bergen in winter
