What goes on behind the scenes of the Genoa Aquarium? One late October I finally did something I had long dreamed of, and went behind the glass to see the work that lies behind the pools that so enchant and calm its visitors, and to understand the whys and hows of a place that is as fascinating as it is, at times, controversial.
With its 27,000 square metres in the heart of Genoa’s Porto Antico, the old harbour at the centre of the historic city, it is the largest aquarium in Italy and one of the biggest in Europe. It was designed by Renzo Piano and opened in 1992, for the Genoa Expo marking five hundred years since Columbus, and today it holds thousands of animals across its tanks, from Mediterranean and tropical seas to a tropical forest.
It is a whole world of a building, employing hundreds of specialists, vets and marine biologists, and taking daily deliveries of fresh vegetables for the manatees and fish and shellfish for everyone else, along with the vitamins and supplements that keep this strange and beautiful population healthy.
An honest word first, because it matters to me
I am an animal lover, and I went in with genuine ethical doubts, which I want to be honest about rather than smooth over.
The case a place like this makes for itself is real. Modern public aquariums do serious conservation, rescue and rehabilitation work, they fund research, and they have done an enormous amount over recent decades to make ordinary people care about the sea, which you cannot protect if you do not love it. I met people who plainly adore the animals they look after, and whose expertise is exactly why we understand the underwater world as well as we now do.
And yet the harder question does not go away, and it is sharpest for the marine mammals. Keeping large, intelligent, wide-ranging animals like dolphins in pools is genuinely contested, on welfare grounds, by scientists and campaigners, and a growing number of people are uneasy with it, myself among them. Genoa’s dolphins are its stars, and they are also the part I found hardest. I do not think there is a tidy answer. What I would say is: go with your eyes open, weigh the education and rescue work against the ethics of captivity for the biggest animals, and make up your own mind. That, to me, is more honest than pretending the question is settled either way.
What lies behind the glass
With that said, the behind-the-scenes access was fascinating, and it deepened rather than dissolved my thinking.
Thanks to one of the keepers, I understood how wrong our fears about sharks are, fears stoked by a handful of rare, sensationalised attacks and one very famous film. Of the roughly five hundred shark species, only a few are potentially dangerous to humans, and then usually only if provoked, and compared with everyone else in the aquarium, sharks eat remarkably little.
I met the keepers of the tropical forest and its colourful inhabitants, and heard the tale of a much-loved rescued sea turtle convalescing at the aquarium, admired by every child who passes her tank. I fell for a curious baby seal and for a little family of manatees, gentle, endlessly eating creatures that are a rarity in Europe, Genoa being one of the very few places you can see them (and yes, seeing them in those small pools broke my heart, and I still think about it). And I spent time with the researchers who work on the Pelagos Sanctuary, the great protected area for cetaceans in the sea between Liguria, Tuscany, Corsica and the French coast, learning about the dolphins that live wild out there, not only the ones in the pools.
Visiting
You can, of course, simply visit. The aquarium is open year-round and offers extras worth knowing about: you can have a marine biologist accompany you, and you can book a behind-the-scenes tour at the desk inside. For current opening times, prices and experiences, check the official Genoa Aquarium website, since these change.
Allow about three hours, or a whole slow day if you want to sit on the floor in front of your favourite tank and simply watch. And if you have time, the nearby Galata Museo del Mare, Italy’s largest maritime museum, is wonderful too, galleys, the walk-through submarine Nazario Sauro (which I found quite claustrophobic), and a deeply moving top floor on the history of Italian emigration.
Frequently asked questions
Yes, it is the largest aquarium in Italy and one of the biggest in Europe, with thousands of animals across richly varied habitats, and it does significant conservation, rescue and research work. It is a highlight of Genoa’s old harbour. That said, if the ethics of keeping marine mammals such as dolphins in captivity trouble you, it is worth knowing that is part of what you will see, and deciding accordingly.
This is genuinely debated. Supporters point to the aquarium’s conservation, rescue, rehabilitation and education work, and its research on wild cetaceans in the Pelagos Sanctuary. Critics argue that large, intelligent, far-ranging animals like dolphins suffer in captivity however good the care. There is no consensus; it is worth weighing both sides and making your own informed decision.
Allow about three hours for a full visit, and up to a whole day if you want to linger. It is large, with many habitats to see, so comfortable shoes and a relaxed pace help. Booking online and visiting early or on a weekday helps you avoid the busiest times.
The aquarium sits in Genoa’s Porto Antico, within walking distance of the historic centre, the Galata Museo del Mare (Italy’s largest maritime museum, with a walk-through submarine), and the Biosfera and Bigo panoramic lift. It pairs well with a walking tour of Genoa’s palaces and its old town.
The aquarium is open year-round and indoors, so it is a good all-weather and off-season choice. Weekday mornings, and outside Italian school holidays, are quietest. Booking a timed ticket online in advance saves queueing at busy periods.
Further reading
- See the city it belongs to: a walking tour of Genoa and Genoa’s walls and forts
- My home region: the Cinque Terre and Liguria
- A very different aquarium, honestly reviewed: Dubai
- The official Genoa Aquarium site, for tickets and times
