Kristiansund, tucked on the coast between Trondheim and Ålesund, made a perfect two-day break on my 47-day journey through Norway. I came by ferry, to make the most of Norway’s fjords, and left with the salt-and-clipfish smell of the place in my coat. Here is how I spent two days there.
Getting there by ferry
To really feel Norway’s coast, travel by sea. I booked my Trondheim-to-Kristiansund leg through the Hurtigruten website, and here is a tip worth its weight in gold for solo travellers: if you want to book single stretches rather than a whole cruise, switch to the Norwegian-language version of the site, as the other-language versions tend to sell only packages. On the longer legs I sometimes treated myself to a cabin and breakfast, perfect for recharging.
Day one: the harbour, the clipfish and the little ferry
The harbour. Kristiansund’s waterfront is all life and colour, fishing boats and ferries coming and going against rows of painted buildings. A lovely place simply to wander.
The Klipfish Museum. Norway’s coast was built on klippfisk, dried and salted cod, and Kristiansund was its capital. This little museum tells that story beautifully, and it is the key to understanding the town.
The Sundbåten. One of the loveliest things to do here is ride the Sundbåten, the tiny historic ferry that has linked Kristiansund’s islands, Kirkelandet, Innlandet, Gomalandet and Nordlandet, since 1876, and is said to be one of the oldest public transport services still running anywhere in the world. Hop on and off as you island-hop; I loved it.
Local seafood. No stay is complete without a bowl of bacalao, Kristiansund’s own tomato-rich salt-cod stew, at a cosy waterfront restaurant. It is the town on a plate.
I stayed at the Thon Hotel Kristiansund, on Innlandet island opposite the centre, with sea views, good food and a lovely terrace.
Day two: the Atlantic Ocean Road
The real reason I stopped in Kristiansund was its nearness to the Atlantic Ocean Road (Atlanterhavsveien), regularly named one of the world’s most spectacular drives: an 8.3-kilometre ribbon of road that leaps between little islands on a series of sweeping bridges, ending on the island of Averøy. On a stormy day the waves crash right over it; on a calm one it is pure, dramatic beauty.
Film fans will recognise it: the Atlantic Ocean Road featured in the James Bond film No Time to Die (2021), in the car-chase sequence. If you would rather not hire a car, guided tours run from Kristiansund to this extraordinary feat of engineering.
Onward to Ålesund
From Kristiansund I carried on to Ålesund by Hurtigruten ferry, through more spellbinding fjord scenery. Kristiansund is a gem for any traveller, and especially an easy, welcoming one for solo travellers: its harbour, its clipfish heritage, the little Sundbåten, and the nearby Atlantic Ocean Road made two days here quietly unforgettable.
Frequently asked questions
Yes, especially as a two-day stop between Trondheim and Ålesund. It offers a colourful working harbour, the fascinating Klipfish Museum (Kristiansund is Norway’s clipfish capital), the historic little Sundbåten island ferry, excellent bacalao, and, close by, the spectacular Atlantic Ocean Road. It is compact, friendly and easy for solo travellers.
Kristiansund sits on the Møre og Romsdal coast between Trondheim and Ålesund. The most scenic way is by Hurtigruten or local ferry along the fjord coast; it is also reachable by bus and has its own airport. To book single ferry legs on the Hurtigruten site rather than a full cruise, use the Norwegian-language version.
The Atlantic Ocean Road (Atlanterhavsveien) is an 8.3-kilometre coastal route near Kristiansund that hops between small islands on a series of dramatic bridges, ending on Averøy. Regularly rated one of the world’s great drives, it is thrilling in wild weather and featured in the Bond film No Time to Die. Guided tours run from Kristiansund if you are not driving.
Summer brings long daylight and the easiest conditions for the coast and the Atlantic Ocean Road, while winter (as on my trip) is dramatic and atmospheric, with wild seas and few visitors, though you must dress for the cold and watch the weather. Spring and autumn are quieter shoulder seasons.
This article is also available as a mobile app, via GPSmyCity, for GPS-guided directions.
Further reading
- The stops either side: Trondheim in two days and three days in Ålesund
- The whole journey: Norway in winter, Tromsø to Oslo in 47 days
- What to pack: my cold-weather packing list for the north
