Three days in Ålesund as a solo female traveller

After leaving Kristiansund in February 2023, I boarded yet another ferry, one of many on my 47-day journey through Norway, and sailed into Ålesund. Of all the towns on my route, this coastal beauty on Norway’s west coast may be the most surprising: an entire town rebuilt in flowing Art Nouveau after a great fire, rising in turrets and spires straight from the water. Here is how I spent three days there.

A town reborn in Art Nouveau

Ålesund owes its fairy-tale looks to a catastrophe. A devastating fire in 1904 destroyed most of the town, and in the rebuilding, funded in part by Germany’s Kaiser Wilhelm II, who loved the region, architects raised a whole new centre in the fashionable Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) style, all ornate arches, spires and floral carvings. The result is a rare, harmonious town centre that feels like a storybook. Simply wandering it, camera in hand, is half the pleasure.

To understand it, visit the Jugendstilsenteret (Art Nouveau Centre), housed in a former pharmacy with its original interiors intact.

Ålesund’s highlights

Mount Aksla. The one view you must not miss. Climb the 418 steps up from the town park (or drive, if you prefer) to a sweeping panorama of Ålesund’s coloured rooftops, the archipelago and the fjords beyond, and in winter, with low golden light washing over it all, it is breathtaking. My favourite moment in the town.

The city centre. Stroll Kongens gate and around the Brosundet, the narrow strait through the centre, where water, mountains and Art Nouveau facades make every corner photogenic.

Atlanterhavsparken (the Atlantic Sea Park). One of Scandinavia’s largest saltwater aquariums, a few kilometres out of town, with seals, penguins and huge North Atlantic tanks. I did not go in this time, but it is well regarded, especially for families.

Getting out into nature

Ålesund is ringed by dramatic landscapes. For a short hike, Sukkertoppen (“Sugar Top”) gives another glorious viewpoint over the town and the Sunnmøre region. Fjord cruises run year-round (bracing but stunning in winter), and while the islands are for kayaking in summer, February is for skiing: the Sunnmøre Alps have runs for every level, from gentle slopes to serious backcountry.

Day trips

• Geirangerfjord, a few hours away, is one of Norway’s most spectacular fjords, sheer cliffs and cascading falls, though best in the milder months (winter access depends on the weather and roads).
• Runde, “Bird Island”, hosts huge seabird colonies (puffins included) from spring to early autumn, and rugged coastal scenery year-round.
• The open-air Sunnmøre Museum, a short bus ride away, brings coastal Norway’s past to life with reconstructed buildings and traditional boats.

Eating in Ålesund

For a small city, Ålesund eats very well, above all seafood: cod, salmon and shellfish, the day’s catch driving the specials. Look out for klippfisk (salted cod) and, in season and if you eat meat, fårikål (lamb-and-cabbage stew). Independent cafés are perfect for warming up over a strong Norwegian coffee, and bakeries do open sandwiches (smørbrød) and pastries for a quick lunch.

Three days here felt like a perfect introduction, and I could happily have stayed longer. Between the panoramic hikes, the fjord cruises, the seafood and those Art Nouveau treasures, Ålesund pairs urban charm with wild Norwegian beauty like almost nowhere else.

Frequently asked questions

Further reading

• The stop before: a memorable two days in Kristiansund
• The whole journey: Norway in winter, Tromsø to Oslo in 47 days
• More of the north: Bergen in winter
• What to pack: my cold-weather packing list for the north