Snow-laden streets, crisp air and a deep, medieval past: that was my welcome to Trondheim in February 2023, midway through my 47-day journey the length of Norway. I arrived on a tiny Widerøe night plane from Bodø (the moonlight on the snowy mountains below was worth the flight alone) to find Norway’s third city dusted white and full of Scandinavian charm. Here is how I spent two days there.
Getting around
- On foot: Trondheim’s city centre is very walkable, so long as you’re equipped with sturdy boots. The winter weather can make for slippery pavements, but the city does a fine job clearing snow.
- By bus: If you’d rather rest your feet, the local bus system (AtB) is excellent. Tickets can be purchased easily via the AtB app or at station kiosks.
- By bike: Even in the colder months, you’ll spot intrepid cyclists riding around. If you’re feeling adventurous, renting a bicycle could be an enjoyable way to see the city. Trondheim even boasts a famous bicycle lift in Bakklandet for those tricky hills!
Getting around
Trondheim’s centre is very walkable, though you will want sturdy, grippy boots in winter; the city clears its snow well, but the pavements can be slick. The local buses (AtB, tickets on the app or at kiosks) are excellent if your feet give out. And even in the cold you will spot cyclists, this is the city with the world’s only bicycle lift, the Trampe, to help you up the hill to Bakklandet.
Day one: medieval Trondheim
Nidaros Cathedral. No visit is complete without it: the largest medieval building in Scandinavia, a soaring Gothic masterpiece, especially lovely framed by low winter sun. Next door, the Archbishop’s Palace holds Norway’s crown jewels and centuries of ecclesiastical history.
Bakklandet and the Gamle Bybro. Cross the Old Town Bridge from the cathedral into Bakklandet, a fairytale quarter of colourful wooden houses, cobbled lanes and little shops and galleries. I made straight for Baklandet Skydsstation, a treasured old bistro serving hearty soups and Norwegian home cooking; even just for a hot drink, its cosy rooms feel like a home from home. Warm up too at Dromedar Kaffebar, famous for its coffee and pastries.
By the river. In the evening, stroll the Nidelva, where the lights of the old wharf buildings dance on the water. For dinner, Havfruen is the place for seafood, and Fagn for inventive Nordic cooking, and Trondheim’s craft-beer scene is well worth a pub stop after.
Day two: a day trip to Røros
With a day to spare, I could not resist Røros, the UNESCO World Heritage mining town (inscribed in 1980), about two and a half hours away by train from Trondheim Central. Grab a window seat: the ride through snow-blanketed mountains, forests and frozen lakes is pure Nordic bliss.
Røros, in what is now Trøndelag county, is a mining town like no other: earthy-toned wooden houses along streets that time forgot, the striking black-and-white church, and artisan workshops selling Sami crafts. Have a reindeer stew for lunch, wander until the cold bites, and take the late train back as the sun sets over the snow, a painting come to life. (There is much more in my full two days in Røros.)
Onward by ferry to Kristiansund
Early the next day I left Trondheim by ferry for Kristiansund, threading through a maze of islands and misted fjords lit by a pale winter sun. For anyone who loves the north, ferry travel in Norway is perfection. Trondheim gave me two glorious days of history, café warmth and good food, and the perfect base for one of the loveliest day trips of my whole journey.
Frequently asked questions
The essentials are Nidaros Cathedral (the largest medieval building in Scandinavia) and the adjoining Archbishop’s Palace with the crown jewels, the Bakklandet quarter reached over the Old Town Bridge, and the Nidelva riverside. Add the world’s only bicycle lift, a strong café and craft-beer scene, and, with a spare day, a train trip to Røros.
Trondheim has its own airport at Værnes (about 30 minutes from the centre by bus), with domestic flights including small Widerøe services, and is on the national rail network. Along the coast it also connects by Hurtigruten and local ferries, a beautiful way to arrive or continue toward Kristiansund and Ålesund.
Yes. Trondheim is atmospheric and welcoming in winter, its medieval streets and wooden quarters dusted with snow, its cafés cosy, and the low winter light beautiful on the cathedral. Wear proper boots for icy pavements, and consider the magical train day trip to Røros. It is also a comfortable, safe city for solo travellers.
Two days is a good fit: one for the city itself (the cathedral, Bakklandet, the riverside and the food), and one for a day trip to the UNESCO town of Røros. If you would rather focus on Trondheim alone, a single full day covers the highlights, but the Røros excursion is well worth the extra day.
Further reading
- The perfect day trip: two enchanting days in Røros
- The next stop: a memorable two days in Kristiansund
- The whole journey: Norway in winter, Tromsø to Oslo in 47 days
- What to pack: my cold-weather packing list for the north
One Comment