Wandering around Orgosolo, among murals and traditions

3 min.

I have traveled quite enough, in Italy and abroad, in more or less beautiful places, more or less touristy, and I do not always leave a place desiring to go back someday. But Barbagia amazed me since the very first minutes, and Orgosolo is its heart.

Orgosolo is different

Orgosolo is a small village perched on top of a mountain overlooking a beautiful valley consisting of barren land, limestone cliffs, ancient nuraghi, towering oaks, and untold difficulties.

Orgosolo is a little village representing the deepest Sardinia, between anarchy, resistance, and self-made rules, created to survive and get around the occupant, the State. A small village where women too lived the spirit of revenge, often urging it themselves.

Nowadays, Orgosolo bears the marks of this history, and if the resistance is no longer made with gunfire’s shots is still something strong and almost tangible. In this small village, the walls actually talk and make you think.

I visited Orgosolo with Letizia of Visit Nuoro, who told me that in 1969 a group of anarchists known as Dionysus signed the first mural, which was followed by those of some schoolboys wanting to celebrate the anniversary of the Resistance and Liberation of Italy from fascism and was little by little joined by other local young people and artists.

A folk art form that is decorative but mainly political. There are several techniques and styles, and it’s thrilling to walk from one house to the other, admiring more or less realistic designs, more or less shiny colors, but all telling a powerful message that hits and marks you.

They all talk about anarchy, protest, anti-capitalism, but also about the history of this land and the lives of its inhabitants.

Strolling through the narrow streets of this special village and chatting with its elderly is an experience not to be missed. Getting carried away by their passion, read their faces and wrinkles that tell stories, stopping to look at the murals and read messages aloud to give voice to the craftsmen and then think, again and again.

Violence is always a bad thing and, in fact, never leads to anything good, but must be listened to and understood to be able to overcome it.

Like any traditional small village, Orgosolo does not live only of resistance … the traditions and religious customs have a significant role. Besides Sant’Antonio Abate with its fires on January 17th, which I told you about in my post on the archaic carnival of Mamoiada, Orgosolo celebrates Nostra Sennora de Mesaustu, Our Lady of the Assumption, in mid-August (an essential celebration even where I was born!), lasting for almost three weeks with ancient costumes and horseback processions. Letizia told me that at the end of the procession begins a horse race in the streets of the village, Sa Vardia. In short, I have to go back in August!

Where to eat in Orgosolo

I strongly recommend the typical shepherds’ lunch at the Ristorante Supramonte, at 3 km from Orgosolo.

Mouthwatering food and traditional dishes eaten in the shade of towering oak trees. You sit in groups on long benches, being served on wooden boards (which I obviously bought at the end of the meal!), and you eat with your hands. Relax, simplicity, fun, and good food. I really liked it!

At the end of the service, the guys who worked in this very peculiar restaurant sang and danced for us. The so-called canto a tenores comprises four voices: the soloist Sa Vohe, the baritone Sa Hontra, the bass Su Bassu and the mezzo Sa Mesu Vohe.

Getting there

As told in the post on Nuragic culture, I took the Tirrenia ferry in Genoa, but I’ll really should tell you everything about it in a specific future post… I know, I’ve already said this and didn’t do it. I’m promising I’ll now do that very shortly! 😉

When traveling with Tirrenia, you can also board your own car, or you can also rent a car upon arrival in Porto Torres, and to reach Orgosolo, it then takes more or less two hours a half.