There are places in Paris that everyone knows: the sweeping steps leading up to the Sacré-Cœur, the buzzing Place du Tertre filled with painters and caricaturists, or the pastel façade of La Maison Rose that seems to have been painted solely for Instagram. But then there are those little gems you stumble upon when you least expect it — and Clos Montmartre, Paris’ last working vineyard, is exactly that.
I still remember the first time I walked along rue des Saules, a quiet street tucked away in Montmartre’s 18th arrondissement. Tourists streamed past towards the Musée de Montmartre, but I stopped in my tracks. Behind a wrought iron fence, there it was: rows of vines climbing the hillside, stubbornly holding their ground against the city’s relentless expansion.
It felt almost unreal. A vineyard in the heart of Paris?
A Vineyard with a Thousand-Year Story
The story of Clos Montmartre begins as far back as the 11th century, when Montmartre was nothing more than a rustic village of windmills and small houses. By the 12th century, vines covered much of the hill, and by the 16th century, the slopes were home to flourishing vineyards producing both red and white wines for local taverns.
But as the centuries passed, urbanisation crept in. Paris expanded, industries grew, and little by little the vineyards disappeared. By the early 20th century, only this small plot of land remained — neglected and forgotten.
That could have been the end of the story, had it not been for the local community. In the 1930s, Montmartre’s residents fought to preserve this last remnant of their viticultural heritage. The city declared the land non-buildable, and vines were replanted, ensuring that Clos Montmartre would survive.
Today, the vineyard spans just 1,500 m² with around 2,000 vines, including Pinot Noir, Gamay and other traditional varietals. An oenologist appointed by the city still oversees production, but the heart of the project remains with the Montmartrois themselves.
A Local Harvest Festival
Each autumn, the vineyard produces just under 1,000 bottles of wine. It’s not about profit — the bottles are auctioned every October during the Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre, a joyful harvest festival that has become one of the neighbourhood’s most beloved traditions.
If you happen to be in Paris during this time, expect lively parades, street performances, art exhibitions, wine tastings, and food stalls spilling out onto the cobblestones. The festival attracts thousands, but at its core, it’s still a community event. The proceeds from the wine go directly to local charities, keeping the spirit of solidarity alive.
Visiting Clos Montmartre Today
Unlike the vineyards of Burgundy or Bordeaux, you won’t find Clos Montmartre open for casual tastings. The vines are fenced off and can only be visited on special occasions or during guided tours organised by the Musée de Montmartre. Still, even from the outside, it’s a magical sight.
Stand on rue des Saules and imagine the centuries of history these vines have witnessed. Just next door, you’ll find La Bonne Franquette, a historic inn where Van Gogh, Renoir, and Picasso once dined, and a few steps away, the picturesque Lapin Agile cabaret. Montmartre may be touristy, but here, with the vineyard in front of you, it feels like stepping into a quieter, older Paris.
Why It Matters
For me, Clos Montmartre is more than just a curiosity. It’s a reminder of how fiercely Parisians love their city — enough to fight for a tiny vineyard when developers had other plans. It’s a patch of green clinging to a hillside, a symbol of continuity in a neighbourhood that has transformed countless times.
And there’s something magical about knowing that while tourists flock to Sacré-Cœur, a few steps away, grapes are quietly ripening in the Parisian sun.
Practical Information
Clos Montmartre
Rue des Saules, 75018 Paris
Metro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt (Line 12)
Best time to visit: October, during the Fête des Vendanges.
Whether you’re a wine lover, a history buff, or simply someone who enjoys wandering off the beaten track, Clos Montmartre is a little Parisian secret worth discovering.
