A local perspective after ten years in the city
Living in Paris is something I wish to anyone. Visiting Paris is wonderful, of course, but actually living there is another story entirely. As Audrey Hepburn famously said, Paris is always a good idea. After ten years of Parisian life, followed by countless business trips before and after, I slowly built my own way of experiencing the city, far from the classic tourist itineraries.
This post is for travellers who want to spend a little more time living like a local in Paris, and for those who already know the main sights and are curious to explore a more everyday, authentic side of the city.
Breakfast in Paris
My local rituals by the Canal Saint-Martin.
When I lived on Quai de Valmy, breakfast often meant Sésame, a café overlooking the Canal Saint-Martin. It is one of those places where mornings unfold slowly, with good cakes, proper coffee and freshly cooked eggs if you feel like something savoury.
Depending on where you are staying, there are plenty of excellent alternatives. Le Pain Quotidien in rue Montorgueil is a reliable classic, especially for brunch. Café Bastille is perfect if you like to sit and watch the city wake up around a busy square. Mariage Frères in Saint-Paul is ideal for tea lovers, while Ladurée on the Champs-Élysées is still a good option for a chic breakfast or a quick sweet stop. Both Sésame and Le Pain Quotidien are also great choices for a relaxed weekend brunch.
Lunch in Paris
Simple food, good prices and neighbourhood favourites.
One of my long-time favourites is the Bar à Soupes in rue de Charonne. Tiny, efficient and incredibly affordable, it serves a rotating selection of soups inspired by cuisines from around the world. Think carrot and ginger, coconut and peas, lentils and spices, each paired with a different type of bread. It is perfect for a quick, healthy lunch.
For Japanese food, my former canteen was Sukiyaki at the beginning of rue de la Roquette, right by Place de la Bastille. Their menus range between 10 and 20 euros and are ideal for a no-nonsense lunch.
Another place I love is Merci, on Boulevard Beaumarchais. Part concept store, part café, part bookshop, it has a small bistro where simple dishes are served among towering shelves of books. It is one of those places where lunch naturally turns into an unplanned break, browsing novels and travel books while waiting for your plate.
Other reliable lunch options include the café at Centre Pompidou, La Tête d’Or just behind Théâtre du Châtelet, Aux Petits Carreaux and Rocher de Cancale in rue Montorgueil. When the weather allows, I often opt for sandwiches or quiches from Paul and eat them along the Seine, in Place des Vosges or on Île Saint-Louis. For those willing to go a bit further, the Bois de Boulogne or the park of Versailles, especially near the village of Marie-Antoinette, are wonderful picnic spots.
Dinner in Paris
My go-to addresses across the city.
For dinner, I return again and again to a handful of places. Mon Oncle in Montmartre, just steps from Abbesses metro, is one of them. Cave Saint-Gilles, near Place des Vosges on the Beaumarchais side, is another. Around Canal Saint-Martin, Cambodge III in rue Marie-et-Louise and Au Verre Volé in rue de Lancry are long-standing favourites.
I also love Camille in rue des Archives, Café Marly inside the Louvre for special occasions, and Le Fumoir opposite the Louvre-Rivoli metro. Its colonial-style interiors, excellent cocktails and carefully curated music make it one of my favourite places to linger late into the evening. Chez Georges in rue du Mail is another timeless Parisian address that never disappoints.
Shopping in Paris
From concept stores to neighbourhood streets.
My mandatory shopping stops in Paris include Antoine et Lili on Quai de Valmy, especially for their original designs. Merci appears again here, unsurprisingly. Muji on rue des Francs-Bourgeois or at Les Halles is perfect for minimalist essentials. I also love Lafayette Maison and, of course, Le Bon Marché, from the food hall on the ground floor to everything above it.
Rue des Francs Bourgeois and rue des Archives are always worth a walk, as are Cour Saint-Émilion in Bercy, the boutiques inside the Carrousel du Louvre, and the narrow streets behind Musée d’Orsay.
Taking time for yourself
Wellness and small rituals in the city.
The hammam at the Grande Mosquée de Paris is visually stunning, but often crowded and noisy. For a more relaxing experience, I recommend the hammam in the Marais, on rue Montorgueil, where booking in advance is essential and allowing at least 3 hours is strongly advised.
Another option is the Thai spa on rue Mandar, which is pleasant even if the skin benefits differ. For haircuts, styling or colour, Tony and Guy in rue de Charonne is a safe bet, not least for the wonderfully relaxing massage chairs. Nail bars, especially when visiting with friends, are also a very Parisian way to take a short break, have a drink and enjoy half an hour of pampering.
Walking Paris
Neighbourhood routes I still love.
Paris is a city meant to be walked, cycled or even explored on rollerblades. Some of my favourite itineraries include:
- Bastille, Saint-Paul, Île Saint-Louis, Île de la Cité, Hôtel de Ville, Louvre
- Saint-Michel, Cluny, rue Monge, rue Mouffetard, Panthéon, Luxembourg
- Bastille, République, Canal Saint-Martin, Marais, rue Montorgueil, Les Halles
- Louvre, rue de Rivoli, Opéra, Garnier, Galeries Lafayette, boulevard des Capucines
- Les Halles, Beaubourg, Marais, Place des Vosges, boulevard Beaumarchais
- Tuileries, Pont des Arts, Bourse, Left Bank
- Montmartre behind Sacré-Cœur and Place du Tertre, then Pigalle
- Canal Saint-Martin, Buttes-Chaumont, La Villette, Cité de la Musique
- Bastille, rue de Lyon, Bercy, Cour Saint-Émilion
One route I particularly recommend follows the path above Metro Line 8. It is an excellent way to discover a less obvious Paris, neighbourhood by neighbourhood.
Paris beyond the monuments
Of course, there are monuments you should not miss. But Paris truly reveals itself in daily rituals, neighbourhood cafés, local walks and familiar streets. This is the Paris I lived in, and the one I always return to whenever I can.
