While I was making arrangements for my trip to Argentina, Jenni was leaving for Nepal, a journey that I had dreamt of for years and that I will probably organise shortly. Meanwhile, however, I couldn’t help but interview her because her post-earthquake experience intrigued me a great deal, and I think it might interest those who are still hesitant.
Enjoy the reading.
Where does your love for travelling come from?
I suppose my love for travelling was passed down to me, much like an old family tradition.
I always travelled with my parents in a motorhome, on the road, a bit like gypsies. This was a perfect way to immerse ourselves in the local cultures of Italy, Eastern Europe, Morocco, Turkey, and Russia. Each year, a different destination. Then, once “grown-up,” it was natural to develop the family tradition in my own way: becoming a backpacker.
If I think of something great to do, I definitely think of a trip, and as soon as I can, I get organised and go.
Why did you pick Nepal?
In 2012, I visited India, and my tour did not include the mountains. Upon arrival in Delhi, I was recommended to see Manali in Himachal Pradesh, and I decided to make a quick stop there.
I liked that area a lot, and it aroused my interest in the mountains. Perhaps Delhi’s smog and chaos made me fall in love with the clean air of Manali!
The fact is that this year I had the opportunity to visit Nepal, and when I tried to imagine it, I recalled those Indian landscapes, and I decided instantly.
Didn’t you hesitate cause of the previous spring earthquake?
I reached an old friend who used to spend his winters in Nepal. I left in early December, and the earthquake hit the country in April and yes I, of course, had some doubts, mostly related to domestic travels: I knew that many roads in the Kathmandu Valley were rough or closed, but he calmed me telling me that our itinerary would develop in the opposite direction, towards Pokhara, the starting point of a beautiful hiking area along the Annapurna ring, one of the Himalaya giants.
What was your route in detail?
Kathmandu
Once in Kathmandu, I spent the first two days exploring the town, which was less chaotic than usual due to the total lack of gas. I was impressed to see the gas cylinders (!) and scooters’ never-ending queues everywhere, attached to the road waiting to be recharged. However, it wasn’t the earthquake causing these endless columns, but politics: India usually supplies Nepal, but due to some political dispute, it reduced gas exports. We quickly started to rejoice together with the others when supplies arrived! (I know that the situation is now normalised.)
On the day of the flight to Pokhara, I quickly visited the Temple of Pashupatinath, famous for cremation ceremonies, with my friend Lillo. A mystical moment, I would say. In Pashupatinath, there are several arcade,s and this is where babas, the gurus, live. They all have their little living space under the colonnade. An awe-inspiring place that has taken us in so much that we almost missed the flight.
Lillo has “his baba”, and we spent hours sitting cross-legged, strictly barefoot, in his residence, composed of three rows of columns and a fireplace always lit and with a boiling pot on it. For those who have never witnessed the ritual preparation of a baba tea, it is essential to know that it is very long and ceremonious, and above all, it must never be interrupted! In short, our flight took off at 15:00, and ten minutes before, we were still sitting in the temple, trying to gobble a burning cup of tea as quickly as possible!
When we arrived at the airport, our plane was an hour late, and I must admit that I did think the blessing of the baba was helpful.
Gorepani, via Pokhara
Once in town and above all once we obtained the trekking passes, we walked to our destination.
Let’s start by saying that I am not an experienced hiker, and so we opted for a straightforward climb: the 3,220 m Ghorepani Poon Hill, which we covered in a week. Although it’s nothing compared to the peaks around me, seeing that you approach them step by step is a wonderful feeling.
It was hot during the day, the kind of heat that makes you feel like wearing a t-shirt, but in the evening, I had to add all the layers of clothes I had in my backpack. We would warm up around the fire and then ran into the sleeping bag. The room temperature was almost the same as the outside temperature, and sometimes we laughed hysterically due to the cold. Just before falling asleep, we thought back to the incredible landscapes we had admired daily.
We hiked thousands of steps to reach the top, after the first moments of happiness and satisfaction, we realised one thing: we still needed to hike back! An infinite descent, composed of stone steps, obviously uneven and really very steep. The famous “break-knees”!
Returning to Ghorepani, though, I reached my personal goal: I woke up at about 5 am to hike another never-ending staircase, with a borrowed flashlight in my hand, to reach a famous viewpoint and watch the awakening of the gods, the immense mountain range that stands before a very few people’s eyes at sunrise. I felt supported by the clouds, and everything around me seemed to sprout these white and windy peaks deserving so much respect.
Tatopani
Our trek ended in Tatopani, a small village in the valley, from where we took the bus back home to Pokhara.
Tatopani in Nepali means “hot water” and to my great joy hosts thermal waters! I almost cried at the idea of a hot bath after all the cold showers I had to take!
P.S. In Pokhara, we stayed at the Holy Lodge, a guesthouse that Lillo considers his home.
What impressed you the most?
A self-evident answer: the mountains.
While hiking up, day after day, you feel they are defying you, inviting you, encouraging you, and when you arrive at the goal you’ve fixed for yourself, you understand why they insisted so much and you can not help but thank them.
What did you like the least?
I’d say nothing.
Some tourists may not like having to pay admission fees in some of the cities open spaces such as Durban Square in Kathmandu – as if in Italy you’d need to pay to enter Piazza del Popolo in Rome or Piazza del Campo in Siena – although I must admit that once you understand that the reason is the reconstruction of pagodas, ancient buildings, squares and monuments you contribute to it more than willingly.
How did you find the country after the earthquake?
Back in Kathmandu, my “guides” Lillo and Barbara took me to Bhaktapur, one of the oldest cities of Nepal. I had noticed Lillo was hesitating, but then I realised: for a person who had seen Baktapur before the earthquake, it was heartbreaking to see it now. It is a pile of rubble, with wooden poles propping up what remains, and several posters showing the building in its original state. Many of these no longer exist. Bhaktapur was one of the most severely affected places, and it is evident.
Do you have any travel tips for people planning a trip to Nepal?
Nepal is a renowned destination among nature and adventure enthusiasts, and I recommend a pleasant trek, even of just five days (there are trails to suit all tastes and abilities), as well as a rafting excursion or a paragliding flight over Lake Pokhara. For those with extra time, it’s also possible to trek to Annapurna Base Camp, adding even greater Himalayan scenery and cultural depth to the journey. There are several possibilities for a cool dose of adrenaline!
Would you go back?
Yes, maybe in a few years.
Lillo told me about his trekking in the highlands on the border with Tibet, and I would love to go there. The only problem is a flight in the mountains that does not always take off due to strong winds, and then a thirty-day walk… maybe next time with more time, training, and courage!
Next trip?
This year, before deciding to go to Nepal, I was oriented towards Myanmar. Everybody tells me it’s a beautiful country, and my parents have already been there, and I can’t stay behind!
You can follow Jenni’s newly opened social media accounts on Instagram and Twitter. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to get in touch!
