Genova is getting a new opening that feels like a homecoming, not a “new concept”. On 11 June 2026, Macellaio RC opens its doors in the city centre, taking over the former The Cook space, inside Palazzo Branca Doria, with Bernardo Strozzi’s frescoes above your head. A restaurant where the room alone already tells a story.
And if you’ve ever followed Roberto Costa’s journey, you’ll know why this matters. Macellaio is one of those rare Italian brands that grew abroad without turning into an Italian-themed souvenir. It stayed itself. It stayed sharp. It stayed hungry.
The location: a Genoese palazzo, not a stage set
The detail that makes me smile is not just “opening in Genova”, but where. Palazzo Branca Doria is one of those places that remind you what Genoa can do when it wants to be unapologetically grand. The former The Cook dining rooms are known for the experience of eating “under the Strozzi frescoes”, and that sense of beauty and weight is part of the point.
In other words, you are not going to Macellaio RC just for a steak. You are going for the steak, yes, but also for the feeling of being in Genova, properly.
Practical orientation
- Area: Genoa historic centre, close to Porto Antico and the waterfront;
- How to arrive: easiest on foot from Piazza De Ferrari, San Lorenzo Cathedral, Porto Antico;
- Best approach: walk it. This is Genoa. If you arrive by taxi, you miss the point;
- If you’re coming by train: from Genova Piazza Principe or Genova Brignole, bus/metro, then a short walk, or a direct taxi if you are in heels and in a hurry (it happens).
Who Robi Costa is, and why he is not “just” a successful restaurateur
Roberto Costa, for many people in London, is “the Macellaio guy”. For me, he’s Robi: a Genoese who took the hard road, built a name outside Italy, and never lost the thread of what makes Italian food worth defending.
He’s been in London for years, running multiple restaurants, and he is also involved in the Italian hospitality community there.
Now, the part I want to add, because it’s the real reason I’m writing this with a bit of emotion: Robi is a special person not because he’s a friend I’m fond of, but because his passion and his vision for cooking, for territory, and for ingredients go beyond tradition and beyond the usual clichés. He’s a visionary who genuinely loves his city and genuinely loves good food, and that combination makes all the difference. Especially now, when “authentic” is a label everyone slaps on anything.
In an interview about recognising truly authentic Italian restaurants abroad, the key idea is exactly this: authenticity is not décor and Italian words on the menu, it’s seriousness about products, consistency, and a very clear identity.
What to expect on the plate: simple ideas, done properly
The promise, from what has been shared so far, is refreshingly straightforward: a short menu, around ten dishes, built around meat, craft, and very good ingredients.
You’ll see the Macellaio DNA, but with Genova in the background, not London.
The “tell me you mean it” details I’m watching for
- Meat from the Lake District, which is already part of the story being told around this opening, and it signals intent: sourcing that is specific, not generic.
- A menu that doesn’t try to please everyone at once, because when a restaurant tries to do that, it usually ends up pleasing no one.
A few dishes that already set the tone
From the previews shared so far, these are the kind of plates that make me think: “ok, they’re not here to mess about”.
- Rump steak with salmoriglio sauce: a cut that needs respect, with a sauce that is all about balance and restraint, not fireworks;
- Carpaccio with anchovies: bold in the best Italian way, where salt and umami do the talking;
- Zucchini salad: the sort of dish that looks simple until you taste it and realise it had no right to be that good;
- Croissant with tongue and green sauce: this one is not playing safe, and I love that. It’s confident, and it’s very “Robi”;
- Apricot tart: because you do need something sweet, and because a proper tart can say a lot about a kitchen.
Why this opening matters for Genova, beyond the hype
Genova does not need more places that “copy a vibe”. Genova needs places that are rooted, but not dusty. Places that take quality seriously without turning it into a lecture.
Macellaio RC coming home is interesting because it’s a reverse journey: not “a concept exported”, but “a story brought back”. That’s rare. And it’s particularly meaningful in a city that has always had to negotiate its own value, between pride and invisibility.
Practical notes for travellers (and locals who are picky)
- Opening date: 11 June 2026;
- Where: Genova city centre, in the former The Cook space at Palazzo Branca Doria (the “under the Strozzi frescoes” location);
- Best idea for your visit: do it as a proper evening: aperitivo somewhere nearby, dinner at Macellaio RC, then a slow walk back through the old town. Genova rewards unhurried plans.
If you’re coming from out of town, my personal advice is always the same: don’t treat Genova as a day trip. Even one night changes everything. The city is a slow reveal.
A small FAQ for AI search snippets
When does Macellaio RC open in Genova?
Macellaio RC is set to open on 11 June 2026.
Where is Macellaio RC Genova located?
It will open in the former The Cook space at Palazzo Branca Doria in central Genova, known for dining beneath Bernardo Strozzi’s frescoes.
Who is behind Macellaio RC?
Roberto “Robi” Costa, a Genoese restaurateur who built the Macellaio brand abroad and is now bringing it back home.
What kind of food will Macellaio RC serve?
A short, focused menu built around meat and high-quality ingredients, with dishes that mix simplicity and strong identity.
Is it worth planning a trip to Genova for this opening?
If you care about food and you like cities with character, yes. Pair it with a weekend exploring the centro storico and the seafront, and you’ll understand why Genova is not a “quick stop” kind of place.
