Among the biggest travel emotions, I can’t help but include Sigiriya, the extraordinary site that brought me into the heart of Sri Lanka.
If the tea plantations made me choose ancient Ceylon as a destination in 2015, this towering volcanic rock inspired me on this journey to the island’s centre.
I didn’t like everything, and I wouldn’t certainly visit some of the monasteries and sites a second time (!). Still, if you decide to travel to the “tear of India”, I really recommend you plan a stage in Sigiriya to discover the central region of Sri Lanka.
But let’s get to the point …
Sigiriya
Sigiriya is perhaps best known as Lion Rock, a spectacular magmatic column more than 350 meters high. In the late fifth century AD, King Kasyapa built his palace on the ruins of a Buddhist monastery. Sigiriya is the eighth world wonder for Sinhalese people, and I must admit it is an exceptional site.
Given the total absence of shade and the prohibitive temperatures of the country, I suggest you arrange your visit in the early morning or late in the afternoon and start from the museum at the entrance of the archaeological park to fully grasp the value and history of this place that after centuries of neglect was rediscovered in 1907 by Britain’s John Still. In addition to permanent exposure, to fully appreciate the visit, I have entrusted the illustrated booklet Story of Sigiriya by archaeologist Paranavithana, which reveals the mysteries of the rock, making me fantasize as I love to do when visiting such a place!
According to the book, King Kasyapa murdered his father to be crowned king, and fearing his brother’s revenge, he built his palace on this rock that he had fortified and surrounded with a moat inhabited by alligators. To give lustre to the kingdom’s new capital, he embellished it with roof gardens, water features, and hundreds of frescoes still visible but unfortunately disfigured by not-that-aware tourists.
According to the drawings in the museum and books, Sigiriya resembles the architectural scheme of the Forbidden City, with buildings topped by pagoda roofs and protected by outworks. The gardens, crossed by canals and fountains, made me think of a small, antique Versailles. Beautiful!
The not-difficult climb to the rock’s summit reveals the spirit of the monastic site that, following the king’s deposition by his usurped brother, was for centuries a Buddhist monastery. Halfway up, you reach a panoramic esplanade on which stood the official entry of the building: the lion’s head that gives its name to the site. Today, only the legs are visible, allowing visitors to appreciate the ancient fifteen-meter-high entrance majesty. Climbing the modern metal stairs that replaced the original brick ones, you get to the roof terrace once home to the royal palace. The view up there is spectacular, as are the old pools. I felt like I was on the roof of the world …
Useful information:
- The entrance fee is 3900Rs for foreigners and 50RS for Sinhalese, and only half the price is charged for children
- The site is not religious. Therefore, you do not need to walk barefoot or cover your shoulders and legs
- Do not forget a bottle of water for the uphill part of the visitors
- Try to be as quiet as possible! All along the route, you’ll see signs asking for silence to avoid swarms of wasps, but I guessed it is only a gimmick to avoid hordes of noisy barbarians …
Piduraryale Rock in Sigiriya
From the summit of Sigiriya, I spotted the younger sister of Piduraryale Rock, home to an ancient Buddhist monastery that had disappeared. Climbing this rock takes only a few hours, and the view of Lion Rock from this angle is impressive, but to tell the truth, it’s worthwhile only if you have plenty of time.
Polonnaruwa
Polonnaruwa is a two-hour drive from Sigiriya (I did it with a tuk-tuk), and it’s a modern city famous for its namesake archaeological park seat of an ancient and powerful capital. The site, a World Heritage since 1982, is vast and undoubtedly one of the best-preserved among those visited during my trip through Sri Lanka.
The ruins are enclosed in concentric walls and scattered among gardens and forests. In the middle stood the royal palace of Parakramabahu I and, further north, the so-called Quadrilateral, home of the country’s most important religious buildings. The Gal Vihara especially struck me: four gigantic statues of the Buddha depicted in different positions carved directly into the rock.
To the west of the city is the Parakrama Samudra, the largest artificial lake called the Sea of Parakramabahu, which has provided water and protection for centuries.
For historical detail regarding the ancient capital, I suggest you read the relevant page on Wikipedia more reliably than my notes taken casually on-site …
Useful information:
- The entrance fee is 3250Rs
- Since the site is purely religious, you’ll have to cover your arms and legs and take off your shoes. I recommend wearing socks to soften the walk on the gravel surrounding the monuments.
Ritigala Ruins
The ruins of Ritigala are a must-visit when in Sigiriya. For a few hours, they made me feel like Indiana Jones!
The entrance to this archaeological park is also home to a branch of the Department of Archaeology of Sri Lanka, asking for only a free donation to let enter the very few onlookers who want to venture to explore this ancient monastery swallowed by the forest.
Everything here is striking: the stone bridges, the unevenly rising stairs, the snaking through the trees, the rocks scattered in emerald green, the monkeys’ verses during the visit, the sound of the river…
This mountain is also linked to countless folktales. For example, it is said that the Sansevi grass can cure all human pains and lengthen life. I couldn’t find it 😉
Dambulla, a forced stop when in Sigiriya
Dambulla is a densely populated and chaotic avenue, home to what I spontaneously called “the praise of kitsch,” the glittering Museum of Buddhism that is also the entrance to the most famous rock monastery in Sri Lanka.
The museum is really a sad and poorly exposed collection of icons and vestments. Simultaneously, the monastery under the rock at the top of the hill is imposing with its white colonnades and decorated gables.
The site consists of five cave shrines with painted ceilings, all well-attended by local believers. The outside really impressed me, but I wouldn’t say I liked the caves, and I couldn’t feel the spirituality of the place. It must be noted that the entry is so unspiritual that I found it hard to see beyond it!
Useful information:
- the entrance fee is 1500Rs
- the site is a religious one, and control at the entrance is more careful than elsewhere
- do not forget a bottle of water for the uphill walk
- if you want to stop by really quickly on your way elsewhere, you can leave your luggage at the entrance of the Temple for the duration of the visit
Visit to the traditional village
Along the road from Dambulla to Sigiriya, there’s a traditional tourist village. It obviously is an attraction designed for Westerners, and many of them might hate the idea, but I liked to see how people still live in rural areas of Sri Lanka, what they eat, and how they move.
The experience costs 2500Rs, and between the ride on typical carts, crossing the river in a canoe, the snack in the hut* and the way back to the base, you’ll have to count a couple of hours.
*if you are not vaccinated against hepatitis A, I’d advise against the frugal feast!
I invite you to read my post, Travelling through Sri Lanka, for more practical information on transport, moving on-site, lodging, and the rest of my itinerary in Sri Lanka.
For more adventure, also check out Sri Lanka’s bike tour options!
