A few weeks ago, I treated myself to a quick visit to Maremma to cover a very short section of the Tuscany Wine Road and visit a winery that makes me dream for many reasons, not the least of its belonging to what for me is the “the Alinghi family” who gave me a lot of satisfaction in my years in Valencia, but that’s another story which is likely to take me off-topic!
Colle Massari, an exceptional winery of the Tuscany Wine Road
So, I’m talking about the farm of Colle Massari, nestled in a perfect postcard of the Tuscan countryside, just like you imagine it. Rolling green hills dotted with forests, silvery olive trees, vineyards accompanying seasonal changes with their metamorphosis, long rows of slender and majestic cypress trees, and beautiful old villages and hamlets looking like they just came out of a novel.
Even the estate of Colle Massari is novel-like. Actually, novels… as seals are, in fact, more than one and the atmosphere and charm that they evoke too.
The heart of everything is the castle of Colle Massari, a beautiful rural fortified structure on the foothills of Monte Amiata, dominating the surrounding countryside from its hill.
The vineyards surrounding it are sown in a cordon and double Guyot and, once harvested, infuse life in a truly unique vertical cellar. The huge lab is underground and develops on four different levels allowing to move of the grapes without the aid of mechanical means. The winery is based on modern principles of green architecture, energy-saving, and biodynamic.
The other seal is that of Grattamacco, overlooking the sea. Its vineyards are planted in cordon and Guyot, with the addition of Sapling, and produce DOC Bolgheri. Oh, Cabernet Sauvignon…
Fattoria Poggio di Sotto instead is located on the mythical hill of Montalcino, more precisely on its southeast side, and its vineyards are planted entirely in the cordon. Only writing about it awakens in me the desire for a glass of Brunello… not that the Rosso di Montalcino isn’t good enough, but you know I’m dreaming and so… 😉
Lastly, my favorite, the Estate of Montecucco. An old perfect hamlet that, for me, represents Tuscany. The farm is spread around the stony country villa on top of a hill, which can be reached walking a long driveway surrounded by cypresses stopping right in front of the small church dedicated to Saints Peter and Anthony.
From charming accommodation to an idyllic pool surrounded by olive trees overlooking the sea, this seal has everything. They also told me that observing very well on the horizon, you can see the Island of Montecristo, but I couldn’t see it… I’ll come back to check the accuracy of this statement!
Noteworthy is the restaurant where, in front of a romantic and warm fireplace, I could taste local treats, especially the wines!
Accommodation in Maremma
I opted for Le Scuole in Poggi del Sasso to stay on budget, and it was a pleasant surprise! This small B&B actually has very spacious rooms (at least the one where I slept) and is equipped with all the comforts, including a fantastic courtesy service worthy of the bathroom of a well-run four-star hotel!
Breakfast is also delicious and is served in a dedicated venue on the ground floor. The, to me essential, wifi is open and works perfectly (it is also available in the cellar and other areas of the estate of Colle Massari).
From Grosseto, it takes more or less half an hour to get here, taking the route SS223-E78 Grosseto-Siena till Paganico. From this point, I suggest you set these coordinates on your GPS: N 42° 53′ 18.41” – E 11° 19′ 46.61″ ’cause following my directions, you would certainly get lost! 😛
Oh, Maremma is not “bitter” anymore
Sure, it is a region that still reflects wilderness, but malaria, brigands, and hardships do not distinguish it anymore. Its colors are bright and contrast with each other, the stony hamlets on hilltops talk about domination, Tuscan horses are beautiful and inspire strength and freedom, and the butteri that ride them, and then you eat and drink so well!
The words of this song, however, are still beautiful…
« Tutti mi dicon Maremma, Maremma…
Ma a me mi pare una Maremma amara
L’uccello che ci va perde la penna
Io c’ho perduto una persona cara.
Sia maledetta Maremma Maremma
sia maledetta Maremma e chi l’ama.
Sempre mi piange il cor quando ci vai
Perché ho timore che non torni mai»
I only have to go back to visit the rest of the Maremma Wine Road. In the meantime, I’ll help myself a glass of wine 🙂