Snow-laden landscapes, crisp air, and a storied past—this was my welcome to Trondheim in February 2023, right in the midst of my 47-day quest through Norway’s Viking heartlands. After an unforgettable flight on a tiny night plane from Bodø (thank you, Widerøe!), I arrived to find a city dusted in white and brimming with Scandinavian charm. Here’s how I spent two magical days in Trondheim before continuing my journey by ferry to Kristiansund.
Arriving by tiny night plane
There’s something rather thrilling about boarding a diminutive aircraft at night, especially when it’s headed somewhere so steeped in history. Widerøe’s service might be compact, but it certainly provides stunning aerial views—particularly when the moonlight illuminates the snow-covered mountains below. Landing at Trondheim Airport (Værnes) was straightforward, and I hopped onto an airport bus, which whisked me into the city centre in about half an hour. Even at a late hour, Trondheim felt inviting and secure, a relief for a solo female traveller like myself.
Getting around
- On foot: Trondheim’s city centre is very walkable, so long as you’re equipped with sturdy boots. The winter weather can make for slippery pavements, but the city does a fine job clearing snow.
- By bus: If you’d rather rest your feet, the local bus system (AtB) is excellent. Tickets can be purchased easily via the AtB app or at station kiosks.
- By bike: Even in the colder months, you’ll spot intrepid cyclists riding around. If you’re feeling adventurous, renting a bicycle could be an enjoyable way to see the city. Trondheim even boasts a famous bicycle lift in Bakklandet for those tricky hills!
Day one: exploring Trondheim’s medieval roots
Morning: Nidaros Cathedral & Archbishop’s Palace
No visit to Trondheim is complete without admiring Nidaros Cathedral, widely regarded as Norway’s most important medieval building. The façade is absolutely mesmerising, especially when framed by the winter sunshine. Inside, the Gothic architecture and stained-glass windows transport you back centuries. Next door is the Archbishop’s Palace, which features exhibitions about Norway’s royal regalia and ecclesiastical history. If you’re fascinated by medieval lore, you could spend the entire morning here.
Lunch: warm café culture
After soaking up all that history, I needed a warming pick-me-up. Trondheim has a brilliant café culture, so there’s no shortage of lovely spots to linger over coffee or hot chocolate. I recommend Dromedar Kaffebar, famed for its frothy lattes and cosy atmosphere. If you fancy a sweet treat, they do mouth-watering pastries and cakes—precisely what a winter wanderer needs.
Afternoon: Bakklandet & Gamle Bybro
Walk across the Gamle Bybro (Old Town Bridge) from the cathedral to reach Bakklandet, a neighbourhood straight out of a fairytale. Colourful wooden houses line cobbled lanes, with quaint shops and galleries tucked into every corner. I made a beeline for Baklandet Skydstation, a treasured local bistro serving hearty soups and Norwegian specialities. Even if you only pop in for a hot drink, you’ll be greeted by a charming interior that feels like a home away from home.
Evening: riverside stroll & dinner
Come evening; I suggest a riverside stroll along the Nidelva, where the lights of the wharf buildings reflect against the water in a dance of warm hues. Havfruen is a perfect choice for seafood lovers when hunger strikes, while Fagn offers an inventive spin on Nordic cuisine. After dinner, don’t miss the chance to sample local craft beer at one of the city’s friendly pubs—Trondheim’s beer scene is impressively varied.
Day two: a UNESCO escape to Røros
The train journey
Having heard glowing reports about Røros—a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981—I couldn’t resist a day trip. Trains depart from Trondheim Central Station and take around two and a half hours. Make sure to snatch a window seat. Watching the landscape glide past—mountains, forests, and frozen lakes—all under a thick blanket of snow is pure Nordic bliss.
Discovering Røros
Nestled in what used to be Hedmark County (now part of Trøndelag), Røros is a historic mining town like no other. Wooden houses painted in earthy tones cluster around streets seemingly untouched by time. The Røros Church, with its striking white-and-black exterior, is a must-see. I spent the morning ambling about, stopping in artisan workshops selling Sami handicrafts and local produce. Treat yourself to a hearty reindeer stew for lunch or perhaps a sweet pastry at a local café. The atmosphere is so endearing that you’ll scarcely notice the biting cold.
Returning to Trondheim
As the afternoon light waned, I returned to the station and hopped back on the train to Trondheim. Watching the sun set over the snowy countryside was surreal—like a painting come to life. Once back in the city, I squeezed in a final meal before turning in for the night.
Departing by ferry to Kristiansund
Early the following day, I bid farewell to Trondheim and boarded a ferry bound for Kristiansund. The route passed through a maze of islands and stunning fjord landscapes, sometimes shrouded in mist, other times lit by a pale winter sun. For someone who loves the north and its majestic scenery, ferry travel in Norway is absolute perfection.
Favourite eateries & tips
- Dromedary Kaffebar: a cosy café with speciality coffee and pastries.
- Baklandet Skydstation: the rustic bistro in Bakklandet has an excellent soup and warm hospitality.
- Havfruen: riverside restaurant known for fresh seafood.
- Fagn: offers a modern take on regional Nordic dishes.
Top Tip: bundle up in layers and be prepared for changing weather—temperatures can drop significantly in February. Also, monitor transport schedules, particularly if winter storms roll in.
During my Viking voyage, Trondheim offered me two glorious days of Nordic charm, history, and culinary delights. From its grand cathedral to the storybook streets of Bakklandet, each corner revealed a treasure. Venturing further afield to Røros proved the perfect day trip, rounding out a genuinely wintry Norwegian experience. If you’re a solo traveller, fear not—Trondheim feels both welcoming and safe, allowing you to immerse yourself fully in its snowy enchantment.
Leaving by ferry to Kristiansund, I couldn’t help but smile, replaying the city’s highlights in my mind. Suppose your soul yearns for the north and a bit of Viking mystique; make Trondheim a top priority on your Norwegian itinerary. In that case, you’ll find the perfect balance of culture, cuisine, and snowy escapades. Safe travels!
One Comment