In 2018 I crossed the United States alone by train: two months from New York to San Francisco, hopping off at fifteen stops, filling the gaps with Greyhound and local buses. No car, no tour, no fixed schedule beyond a rail pass and a rough plan.
Travelling America by rail is one of the most overlooked ways to see the country, and one of the best for an independent traveller: it is comfortable, it is sociable, it is far greener than flying or driving, and the scenery through the big panoramic windows is unlike anything you get from a plane seat or a motorway. Here is how to plan your own version, why the train should be your first choice, and a day-trip idea for every stop.
Why cross the USA by train
Comfort and space, first of all: Amtrak’s Superliner sleepers and roomy coaches let you stretch out, walk around and dine properly, which after cramped flights feels like a revelation. The scenic routes are the real draw, from the Hudson Valley to the Rockies on the California Zephyr. There are no airport queues or baggage fees, you board minutes before departure, and the train has a far smaller carbon footprint per passenger than a plane or a car. And because the railways were laid before the highways, the track runs right through the heart of the landscape and the towns, so you meet places a road trip would bypass.
The observation car
My favourite spot on any Amtrak train is the observation car, where I spent most of my journey, watching the country change through the oversized windows. Downstairs there is usually a small café and mini-market, and every carriage has coffee, chilled water and ice, so you are never far from a refill. Compared with Europe’s sleek high-speed trains, Amtrak is gloriously slow, all retro stations and nostalgic carriages, and that slowness is the point.
Planning your journey: passes, booking and packing
Choose a rail pass. Amtrak’s USA Rail Pass covers a set number of segments within a fixed window, ideal for a multi-stop trip. Compare fares on the Amtrak site and book several months ahead for the best prices and, crucially, for sleeper availability.
Reserve the sleepers early. The overnight trains, such as the Lake Shore Limited and the Sunset Limited, offer roomettes and bedrooms, and they sell out. Reserve well ahead if you want a bed and privacy.
Supplement with buses. Greyhound, FlixBus and others fill the gaps and reach places the rail network misses. I took a Greyhound from Savannah to Nashville, which unlocked a whole week of live music.
Pack light and soft. A soft-sided bag fits the luggage racks. Bring layers, a refillable bottle, earplugs and a power bank for the long stretches. My carry-on packing tips apply.
Download the apps. The Amtrak app for e-tickets and live updates, and the relevant bus apps, keep the trip running.
The route, stop by stop
I will be writing each of these up in full, but here is the whole itinerary with a day-trip idea or two for each.
1. New York
I have been to New York more times than I can count, for work and pleasure, and its energy never dulls. Day trips: Hudson Valley wineries via Poughkeepsie, the Cloisters at Fort Tryon Park, or the classic ferry to Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty.
2. Philadelphia
America’s birthplace of liberty, colonial history threaded with a lively arts scene. Day trips: the Brandywine Valley gardens, Longwood Gardens, or Amish country.
3. Washington, DC
The capital is a treasure house of monuments and free museums, and even its surroundings are rich in Revolutionary history. Day trips: Mount Vernon and Georgetown by riverboat, colonial Annapolis, or hiking at Great Falls.
4. Colonial Williamsburg
America’s largest living-history museum, where costumed interpreters bring the eighteenth century to life. Colonial Williamsburg is pure magic. Day trips: Jamestown, Yorktown Battlefield, or Busch Gardens.
5. Savannah
I rolled in on a night train and met my friend Abbie, whom I had first met on Lake Titicaca years before, for a tour of the mossy squares. Savannah feels like stepping into a storybook. Day trips: Tybee Island, Fort Pulaski, or a picnic at the ruins of Old Sheldon Church, my favourite spot. I have written a full solo female traveller’s guide to Savannah separately.
6. Nashville, by Greyhound
Music City: honky-tonk, barbecue and boots. Day trips: Franklin’s Civil War sites, the Grand Ole Opry, or the Jack Daniel’s distillery.
7. Memphis
Birthplace of the blues and rock and roll. Day trips: Graceland, the blues trail down to Clarksdale, or a session at Sun Studio.
8. New Orleans
A carnival of culture: jazz in the French Quarter, Creole cooking, and the deep, difficult history of the river plantations. I was there during Mardi Gras. Day trips: the Whitney Plantation, which confronts the history of slavery directly and thoughtfully and is the one I would send you to, a swamp airboat tour, or the French Quarter on foot.
9. Houston
Space City, cosmopolitan and cosmic. Day trips: Space Center Houston, Galveston Island, or the Kemah Boardwalk.
10. San Antonio
The Alamo and the River Walk, Spanish mission history and modern charm. Day trips: the mission trail, Hill Country wineries near Fredericksburg, or the Natural Bridge Caverns.
11. Yuma
A desert oasis, sun-baked by day and star-filled by night. Day trips: Colorado River kayaking, the Territorial Prison, or the Imperial Sand Dunes at sunrise.
12. Tombstone
The heart of Old West legend, where I spent a week at a dude ranch, riding out daily across the plains, cowboy cook-outs, and O.K. Corral reenactments. Given how much I love being on a horse, this was a highlight. You can read about it in my full dude-ranch write-up.
13. Los Angeles
Not quite my city, but it dazzles: Hollywood, the beaches, the studios. Day trips: the Warner Bros backlot, the Getty Center, or a Malibu surf lesson.
14. Las Vegas
Beyond the neon lies red-rock country. Day trips: Antelope Canyon, the Valley of Fire, or the Grand Canyon West Rim.
15. San Francisco
Fog, cable cars and the bridge that needs no introduction, with Napa and Yosemite within reach. Day trips: the Napa Valley Wine Train, which I rode and loved, a multi-day Yosemite hike by train-and-bus combo, the Muir Woods redwoods, or pretty Sausalito across the bay.
Final tips
Flexibility is the whole point. With a rail pass you can change your route on the fly, and you should.
Stay connected with a travel eSIM or portable wifi for schedules and updates.
Savour the ride. Train travel is as much about the journey as the destinations, so give yourself time to watch the country drift past.
Talk to people. The dining car and the observation lounge are where the trip’s best conversations, and best tips, happen. Travelling alone, this is where you are never actually alone.
Swap the airport queue for the scenic platform. It is the finest way I know to feel the size of America.
Further reading
- My short guide to planning independent travel, the method behind trips like this
- Falling for Savannah: a solo female traveller’s guide
- Carry-on packing tips
- The best travel app
- A complete guide to hotel bookings
- My sleeping in a hostel guide
FAQ
How does the Amtrak USA Rail Pass work? The USA Rail Pass lets you take a set number of train segments within a fixed number of days, which suits a multi-stop cross-country trip. Each time you board a different train counts as a segment. You still reserve a seat or sleeper for each leg, and popular routes and sleeping cars sell out, so book segments as early as you can within the pass.
How long does it take to cross the USA by train? A direct coast-to-coast Amtrak route takes around three to four days of continuous travel, but the point of a cross-country rail trip is to stop along the way. Allow anywhere from two weeks to two months depending on how many cities you want to explore. Travelling New York to San Francisco with fifteen stops, as I did, took about two months.
Is Amtrak worth it for travelling the USA? For an independent traveller who values scenery, comfort and a lower carbon footprint over speed, very much so. Amtrak is slower than flying and occasionally less punctual, but the space, the observation cars, the lack of airport hassle and the access to smaller towns make it a genuinely different and rewarding way to see the country.
Can you combine Amtrak with buses? Yes, and it is often necessary, since the rail network does not reach everywhere. Greyhound, FlixBus and regional coaches fill the gaps and open up places off the rail lines. I took a Greyhound from Savannah to Nashville to reach Music City, which Amtrak does not serve directly.
