Living in Bonassola and working in Levanto means having one foot in the sea and the other on a train platform. In the best possible way. From here, the whole stretch of eastern Liguria between Genoa and the Gulf of Poets becomes a collection of easy day trips, to alternate with slow mornings in the village, beach days, boat time, and that very Ligurian art of doing little, but doing it properly.
These are the places I keep returning to, for work, for pleasure, for a walk when my head is noisy, or simply because beauty is addictive and this coastline has plenty of it.
Below you will find my personal guide, stop by stop. For each place, I added a little history, what to see, and a simple itinerary, always assuming you are based in Levanto, as I am.
Genoa: A City of Shadows, Salt and Vertical Beauty
Genoa is one of those cities that does not make itself easy. You need to enter slowly, follow your instincts, accept the darkness of the alleyways and the sudden openings onto the sea. It was one of the most powerful maritime republics in Europe, and you still feel that wealth in the palazzi, the churches, the architecture that seems to say: we have seen the world, we have traded with it, and we have always come back here.
What I do when I have a day in Genoa (more or less once per week!): I start in the centro storico, one of the largest in Europe, and let myself get lost among caruggi, tiny shops, hidden courtyards, and unexpected street art. Then I move towards the Porto Antico and the waterfront. If I want air and views, I go up to the Forts. Genoa is vertical, and the forts are its balcony.
My perfect coastal walk: the stretch between Boccadasse and Nervi. Boccadasse is still a fisherman’s postcard; Nervi is a long, elegant seaside promenade with parks, cliffs, and waves; and, luckily enough, my fiancé lives there. It is one of those walks that clears your mind without asking permission.
Camogli and San Fruttuoso: Fishing Village Charm and a Hidden Abbey
Camogli looks like a theatre set, with its tall houses painted in soft colours and the beach right at their feet. Historically, it was a seafaring town, proud and independent, with a strong maritime identity that you still sense in the atmosphere.
What to do: stroll the promenade, have a coffee facing the sea, and then do what I consider the essential move: reach San Fruttuoso. You can get there by boat or on foot. The abbey of San Fruttuoso, hidden in a small cove, feels like a secret. It has medieval roots and a history linked to monks, noble families, and the sea that both protected and isolated it.
This is the kind of day trip that feels like a mini adventure, even if it is close.
Portofino: The Famous One, Best Enjoyed Properly
Portofino does not need an introduction, and that is precisely why I always suggest visiting it with a bit of strategy. It was once a small fishing village. Today, it is one of Italy’s best-known luxury icons. Still, beyond the boutiques and the yachts, it remains undeniably beautiful.
My way to do Portofino: arrive early or late, walk beyond the little harbour, and head up to Castello Brown or the lighthouse. From above, the view is spectacular, and you escape the most crowded corners. If you like walking, the trails in the Portofino Regional Park are one of the best ways to see the area without the noise.
Sestri Levante: The Two Bays and a Slow Afternoon Mood
Sestri Levante is a natural stage. It sits between two bays, the Bay of Silence and the Bay of Fables, and it has a gentle elegance that makes it perfect for a slow day.
Historically, it was a small maritime centre, and today it remains one of the loveliest towns on this coast, ideal if you want a mix of swim, stroll, and aperitivo.
What I do: walk the peninsula between the two bays, stop for a coffee, then choose: swim if it is warm, or simply sit and watch the light change. Sestri is one of those places where the scenery does most of the work for you.
Framura: Wild Liguria, the Quiet Version
Framura is for people who want the Liguria that does not shout. It is a collection of hamlets scattered above the sea, connected by paths, staircases and silence.
What to do: walk the coastal route and reach the small coves, swim if the sea is calm, and enjoy the feeling of being in a place that still belongs more to locals than to postcards.
If you love trekking, Framura is a beautiful reminder that Liguria is not only beaches, but also hills, woods, and viewpoints.
Bonassola: A Simple Seaside Day Done Well
Bonassola is small, friendly, and easy. It does not try to impress, and that is exactly why it works. Historically, it was a fishing and farming village, and it still feels very livable.
My favourite plan: arrive by bike or walk from Levanto along the coastal path, swim, have lunch without rushing, then head back slowly. Bonassola is perfect for those days when you want sea and simplicity, no more, no less.
Levanto: My Base, My Rhythm, My Starting Point
Levanto is my base because this is where I work and where my boutique hotel is. But it is also a town I genuinely love living in. It is the gateway to Cinque Terre, yes, but it has its own rhythm and its own beauty.
How I like to spend time here: slow mornings, a swim, a walk along the promenade, a coffee in the village, a boat day when the sea allows it, and then a train or a hike somewhere else. Levanto is ideal because you can be active or lazy, and both choices make sense.
The Cinque Terre: Villages, Sanctuaries, Trails and the Right Timing
The Cinque Terre do not need marketing, but they do need timing.
Historically, these villages were built on the edge of the impossible, shaped by sea, terraces and hard work. Today, they are famous, sometimes overwhelmingly so. The trick is not to avoid them, but to experience them as locals do.
My golden rule: the villages are best early in the morning and from 5 pm onwards, when day-trippers start leaving. That is when the streets breathe again, the light becomes softer, and you can actually hear the sea.
Vernazza, my village and a place of the heart
Vernazza is my village. I have an emotional attachment to it that is not negotiable. It is stunning in the morning, when the harbour is quiet, and the first boats move gently, and it becomes magical again later in the afternoon. This is when we go for a little walk, an aperitivo, and dinner. Exactly what locals do.
What to do beyond the postcard
- Walk at least one of the classic trails, but always check conditions and closures.
- Visit the sanctuaries above the villages. They are often overlooked, offering quiet views and a completely different perspective on the territory.
- Choose one or two villages per day, not all five. The Cinque Terre are not a checklist; they are a rhythm.
The Gulf of Poets: Sea, Literature and a Softer Liguria
The Gulf of Poets earned its name because writers and artists fell in love with its light and landscapes. Byron, Shelley, and many others found inspiration here, and it is easy to understand why.
What to do: explore the waterfront towns, take a boat if you can, and allow yourself a slower pace. This is a beautiful area for sunset, for dinner by the sea, and for that feeling of being somewhere both Mediterranean and slightly theatrical.
Montemarcello: A Balcony Over the Sea
Montemarcello is one of those places that feel like a secret even when you know it exists. It is perched above the sea, within a regional park, and it has a calm, almost suspended atmosphere.
Historically, it was a strategic village, and its position explains everything. The views stretch over the Gulf and beyond, and the surrounding nature invites you to walk.
My suggestion: go for a short hike in the park, then stop in the village for a slow lunch or a drink with a view. It is a perfect contrast to the busy coastline.
Sarzana: The Market Town, the Fortress and a Different Ligurian Mood
Sarzana is not by the sea, and that is why I like it. It offers a different perspective on Liguria, more inland, more historical, more local.
It has medieval roots, fortifications, a lively centre, and a market-town energy that makes it perfect for a half-day or full-day trip, especially if you want a break from saltwater.
What to do: wander the old town, visit the fortress, enjoy the shops and cafés, and if you are here on market day, even better. Sarzana has character, and it feels lived-in, not staged.
How to Use This List if You Are Based in Levanto
This is exactly how I live in the territory. Levanto gives you the base, the calm, the sea, the routine. Then you choose one day trip at a time:
- One day for a city like Genoa
- One day for a village, like Sestri or Camogli
- One day for a wild coastline, like Framura
- One day for Cinque Terre at the right hours
- One day, for the Gulf of Poets, when you want softer light and literary vibes
And between them, rest days. Beach, boat, slow lunches, local life. Because this coast is not meant to be consumed quickly. It is meant to be lived, even if only for a week.
