During my first trip to Thailand in 2009, the only one with my brother, I opted for this itinerary:
- Chiang Mai
- Chiang Rai
- Lampang
- Kanchanaburi
- Koh Samui
- Koh Lanta
Chiang Mai, however, is the Thailand I fell in love with and to which I keep going back.
Getting to Chiang Mai
We opted for the slowness that I particularly love while travelling, and we reached Chiang Mai with the night train from Bangkok, leaving at 7.20 p.m. (€ 10 each). A journey into the journey, which treated us with a moving awakening at dawn, with a breathtaking view of the shiny green forest.
Once onboard, a beautiful and sweet lady, speaking only Thai, fixed a small coffee table between the seats (only two per side, facing one another) and let us have the menu for both dinner and breakfast (4 €). She also served a cold lager with chips (€ 1). At about 11:00 p.m., a gentleman came in to prepare our beds with clean sheets and blankets and wished us good night with a wonderful, toothless smile.
The only negative detail was the freezing air onboard due to a never-stopping air conditioning system above each bed. It’s the same thing in buses and minivans all over the country! Given the evolution of the looks on board during the evening, I recommend sweatshirts and socks, a good dose of self-mockery, and a sense of humour!
Accommodation in Chiang Mai
We arrived at Chiang Mai’s elegant train station a few hours late, finding our host, Peter, waiting for us. Within minutes, we crossed the chaos of downtown to find ourselves at the Secret Garden. (70 € for two nights in a bungalow with a twin room and a living room, royal breakfast and dinner included.) The name fits perfectly!
What to do in Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai, the New Town, is the second largest town in Thailand in size and economy. It is also ideal for trekking, shopping, and its rich culture. It is a whole world.
His trail network offers endless hiking options, and its surroundings are dotted with factories of every kind and level. Silk manufacturing is my favorite, ideal for those who want to get tailored clothes in a few days and buy souvenirs and gifts for friends and family.
Thanks to the proximity of sites and temples, it’s effortless to walk around and visit downtown without needing public transport. Over three hundred temples are in town, and many propose thematic stays to attend massage or meditation classes. You can find all the information regarding courses on the Guide du Routard or the Lonely Planet, and even for architectural and historical details, I suggest you check the guides once on site.
However, of all the attractions, I recommend you don’t miss the Doi Suthep, located on a hill a few kilometres away from the ancient city. Once you drove up the winding paths, there were still 309 steps to climb, guarded by two majestic snakes, the mythical naga.
The temple is sumptuous, and from its terrace, you can enjoy a spectacular view of Chiang Mai and the surrounding countryside.
Another temple that struck me is Wat U-Mong. Looking apparently abandoned, it doesn’t seem to be visited by tourists, but it put me in an excellent, peaceful mood.
Its immense stupa and the monks’ residences are immersed in nature, between trees and streams inhabited by huge carp and catfish, like a world apart. Its rocky galleries are also fascinating and host hundreds of icons and statues of Buddha. This Wat is also, in my opinion, the most suitable place to practice meditation and offers both daily and weekly classes.
I also understood something that had been a mystery to me until that day. Didn’t you ever wonder how Orientals can meditate in the middle of forests surrounded by clouds of millions of bugs? The answer is simple: shutting themselves under a tulle bell!
My brother has also spent the day at the zoo visiting various animal farms, including snakes, tigers, and butterflies. He also visited the Sai Nam Phung Orchid, getting lost in immense greenhouses of colourful orchids.
At the Secret Garden
During this same day, so intense for my brother, I have done little or nothing but wisely 😉
I spoke with Peter about his life as a Swiss immigrant, his daily life in Chiang Mai, and local traditions to discuss Thai cuisine.
I do not know how I found myself in this situation—in the kitchen with a green apron around my waist! Pai’s kitchen opens into the garden and is vast and colourful, and her cooking skills are outstanding. She was patient, teaching me how to prepare traditional Thai dishes and giving me valuable tips on possible alternative ingredients more readily available in Europe.
Gradually, I’ll be sharing all the Thai recipes she taught me.
The only attraction in town that I did not appreciate is the Night Bazaar, which has almost nothing genuine. It is a huge market for Western tourists, which, in my opinion, is not worth a visit. If your itinerary includes northern Lampang, I recommend postponing your evening shopping and doing it during its Saturday Night Walking Street. A perfect one is also the one in Chiang Rai.
Apart from this detail, Chiang Mai is a whole world, and it is impossible not to find something to do. It is an unavoidable stage in the emerald green north of Thailand, although not my favourite one.
Also, if you are interested in Italian, you can check out my interview for the Italian train blog Bassa Velocità for more information about train travel in Thailand.
